An abundance of fringes, knitted platbands and a riot of leopard and fur: the fourth Moscow Fashion Week started in the capital on March 13. Among the first to present their collections were MUSAWENKOSi from South Africa, LOOM Weaving from Armenia and our compatriot Alexander Rogov, whose show, like last year, became one of the most striking. As part of the business program, industry experts talked about the Russian code in global fashion and the need to support our craftsmen. For more information, see the Izvestia report.
The first day of Moscow Fashion Week
For a month, the global fashion community followed the shows of the participants of the Fashion Weeks of the "Big Four": New York, London, Milan and finally Paris. The Russian audience was also among the guests of the show. Today, it is concentrated in the capital. On March 13, the fourth Moscow Fashion Week, a key event for the Russian industry, started at the Manege. The program includes more than 90 shows of domestic and foreign brands, as well as an open market, a professional showroom, the World Fashion Shorts short film festival and lectures by leading experts on topical issues of the industry. One of the topics on the agenda of the first day was the discussion "Why do global brands choose the style of a Russian aristocrat?".
— Western European and American design adopted this fashion as a trend, ideology and philosophy and used it very conveniently, blurring it, collecting these codes bit by bit. And fashion, as a social phenomenon, is very fond of legends, some images that adapt to life. The image that we are analyzing today has become one of those, somewhat fantasized. The West took luxury codes without paying attention to depth, and, let's be honest, it continues to do so," Olga Sysoeva, stylist at SERGEI SYSOEV fashion house, said during the discussion.
The session participants agreed that there is a large layer of themes and figures in our history (for example, Stanislavsky was mentioned) that can serve as inspiration for the collections of local designers, but they need more support.
— I believe that it is not always worth sighing for the past, although I am a historian by profession. We're missing out on what we have now. How many cool craftsmen, jewelers, and what glasses they make! There are so many good interesting styles. Yes, they may seem reactive, extravagant. But if we don't bring the money there now, nothing will happen tomorrow. We can say how brilliant Yves Saint Laurent is, or Grandma Chanel and Grandpa Dior, but we have to spend money here. And finding your own designer, even if he's from Chelyabinsk, Tobolsk, or some kind of craft, and supporting him a little bit is the task," concluded fashion historian and art critic Anatole Vovk.
Brands will introduce their works to the metropolitan public until March 18. Among the Russian brands, besides Moscow, Volgograd, Omsk, Kostroma, Yakutsk, Makhachkala and representatives of other regions will take part in the shows.
Russian style, "naked" dresses, a riot of fur and leopard
The trend towards Russian style on the first day of the program was reflected in the Vereja brand's "Web of Patterns" collection, dedicated to the "magic of architraves" (it says in the description), which, according to popular beliefs, protected the house not only from drafts, but also from evil spirits. On the catwalk, they turned into knitted patterns. Another theme of the collection is the recycling of old clothes, inspired by the tradition of creating knitted rugs. This motif is evident in accessories, dresses, skirts and coats, where yarn is obtained from recycled items. Journalist Ksenia Sobchak and blogger Yulia Koval appeared on the runway as models.
Cozy total bows were presented by the Russian premium cashmere clothing brand Alpe Cashmere. Jumpers and cardigans were styled with long skirts and chemise dresses made of flowing fabric and classic suits. Flared shirts tied at the waist diluted the monotonous images.
It seemed that foreign brands would make an obvious bet on their cultural codes.
LOOM Weaving from Armenia, however, surprised — models in long "naked" dresses and mini-dresses with stockings carelessly sliding down on their legs opened the show of the "Urban Boho" collection, as if in the morning after a long sleepless night. If there was a party, it was somewhere on the ranch. The main detail of the collection is the fringe of different lengths and all kinds of fabrics on skirts, dresses, tunics and bags. Cowboy boots on his feet. While some brands continued the trend towards ultra-short shorts, LOOM Weaving emphasized the shape and introduced woolen shorts that resemble pantaloons.
The guests from South Africa MUSAWENKOSi were inspired by the retro classics in the men's suits collection and presented high-rise trousers on the catwalk, which were stylized with silk blouses, with loosely unbuttoned top buttons, and with strict shirts with tightly tightened ties and vests worn over them. The main colors of the collection are black and white. The red hair of the models was diluted.
The first day of the fourth Moscow ROGOV Week was closing. Last year, Alexander Rogov's show became one of the most discussed — fashion telegram channels and industrial media wrote about it for more than one day. The reason was not only the collection and the show itself with its striking set design, but also the unprecedented excitement - there were more people who wanted to attend the show than the hall could accommodate. Therefore, this year the audience was obviously intrigued, and the queue for the entrance had already accumulated an hour before the show. Among the guests were: TV presenter and fashion expert Evelina Khromchenko, stylists Oleg Gorchanin, Gosha Kartsev, Sergey Zverev, singer Nyusha, actor Slava Kopeikin, blogger Karina Murashkina, and this is not the whole star list.
If last year there was a bright curtain at the base of the podium, this time rough scaffolding has grown to the ceiling. To match the daring and hooligan collection, where one image combined a leopard jacket with a green shirt, a yellow fur collar, purple tights and silver boots, the other a gray coat with a colored collar with pajama shorts and a T—shirt with flirty white knee socks and classic loafers.
— Sasha is different. He mixes different styles in an interesting way, and I like it," singer Andrey Zvonky told Izvestia after the show. — There is something for everyday looks, there is something that can be worn on stage for me personally. I've been friends with Sasha personally for a while, I buy things from his collections, I perform in them. I noticed a couple of cool images for myself. I really liked the suit — beige shorts and a jacket. I also have loafers, I think it's great for the stage.
The shows of the Russian brands Solangel, Imkmode, Slava Zaitsev, efremov, IGORGULYAEV, GAPANOVICH (Murmansk), Measure (Makhachkala) are ahead. Among the foreign guests who will present their collections before the end of Moscow Fashion Week are REBORN29 by SYUKRIAH RUSYDI (Indonesia), I—LA (China), Miguel Llopis (Spain), EMRE ERDEMOGLU (Turkey), Pia Lindsay Studio (USA) and others.
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