And the king is fashionable: crinolines and corsets are back on trend
Tight chiseled corsets, crinolines and accent hips on skirts, fitted tailcoats, jabots and cuffs in ruffles were presented by designers on one of the world's main catwalks - at the Paris Haute Couture Week for the spring/summer 2025 season. Earlier Pinterest proclaimed the rococo era as one of the trends of the year. On why the industry rushed to rethink the style of past centuries and how relevant it is in our daily life - in the material "Izvestia".
Crinoline and corsets trend of the spring/summer 2025 season
One of the trends of 2025 Pinterest proclaimed the rococo era - luxurious and ultra-feminine late baroque, which soon found confirmation on one of the main catwalks of the world.Thegeneraltrend of the Haute Couture Week held in Paris in January, which the designers voiced quite clearly, was the aesthetics of the past centuries with all kinds of interpretations of crinolines, with tight corsets, jabots, layered cuffs with ruffles.
- I'm so tired of everyone constantly equating modernity with simplicity: can't the new be complicated, be baroque, be extravagant? Has our fixation on what looks or feels modern become a limitation? Has it cost us our imagination? - asks Daniel Roseberry, who designed the new couture collection for Schiaparelli and opened Haute Couture Week in Paris.
A model presents a creation by designer Maria Grazia Chiuri as part of her Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Christian Dior fashion house in Paris
He finds the answer in traveling back in time and showing silhouettes that evoke the haute couture of the past: corsets with lacing on the back, framed basques, added volume on the hips. Maria Grazia Chiuri continued to explore the creative heritage of her predecessors in the Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025 collection. She, in her turn, turned to the history of high sartorial art and presented models emphasizing the contrast of proportions: lush crinolines, basques with ruffles made of fabric reminiscent of nightgowns of noble ladies of the past centuries, fitted tails.
Alessandro Michele showed similar designs in Valentino's grand couture collection. Taking as a basis Umberto Eco's "The Infinity of Lists" about the phenomenon of obsession with their compilation, he shared his thoughts on the topic. And here the audience saw puffy skirts on frames, dresses with deliberately voluminous hips, elongated cuffs with ruffles, and layered "curly" collars.
"Each dress is not just an object, but rather a node in a network of meanings: a living cartography that stores traces of visual and symbolic memories. It is a narrative archive where incredible combinations find harmony, memories cross eras, cultures and echoes of past stories resonate with the present," the author describes her work.
Ludovic de Saint-Sernin, who became a guest designer of Jean Paul Gaultier, also agreed with his colleagues in many respects. The collection was presented as if not by models, but by survivors of the "Shipwreck" (as the collection is called), ladies in corsets and dresses as if tattered by the elements, men in tails and with the same characteristic extended sleeves of blouses with ruffles, as if from a sailor's shoulder.
"People are tired of stretchy hoodies and sneakers."
Haute couture is not about casual. It's a statement. Yet still inseparable from agendas and trends. Does it mean that with the arrival of spring, as soon as we throw off our down jackets, we will find the very corsets, crinolines, frocks and ruffles underneath them?
- Fashion is cyclical and repeats itself every 10, 20, 30, 40 years. Fashion historians call fifty years a mini-jubilee and 100 years a jubilee. During these periods, fashion as a social phenomenon rethinks the past, " fashion researcher, author of books and scientific works Maria Tretyakova explained to Izvestia. - At the beginning of the 20th century, more than 100 years ago, women removed corsets en masse, and this became a revolution in fashion. The Belle Époque style was replaced by Art Deco, and the silhouette of women's clothing changed forever and irrevocably. Subsequently, the corset became an element of the lingerie closet, gradually transforming and being replaced by the brevity of lingerie and other elements of women's closet. Now is such a period when designers are once again turning to the past, inspired by historical costume.
Valentino Haute Couture
Therefore, the expert notes, in the modern collections of the world's fashion houses we see the aspiration of their authors to explore and rethink the past, in particular, the fashion of the XVIII century, the rococo style and the image of Marie Antoinette: lush skirts with crinolines, luxurious corsets and palettes of pastel colors, powdery halftones, plenty of lace, high hairstyles, gloves, rocaille prints.
- It should be noted that the House of Dior triumphantly showed a rococo inspired collection back in 1997. It was the debut of John Galliano, inspired by the era of Marie Antoinette, where the designer rethought the canons of the XVIII century and allowed the new-look style to sound in a new way. Therefore, the primacy in the formation of this trend back in the late XX century certainly belongs to the House of Dior, - said the expert. - This aesthetics is relevant today, as people are tired of the alarming political situation in the world, of sports style, home recluse covid restrictions, stretched hoodies and sneakers. I would call the new trend neorococo.
According to Maria Tretyakova, any trend is applicable as long as fashion works for a person, taking into account the anatomical features of their body. Another question is whether what designers offer is practical.
Christian Dior show
- In a corset and lace it is difficult to wait for a streetcar and run through an underpass. Therefore, this trend is generally applicable in evening fashion. Although the couture collection "Shipwreck" by Jean Paul Gaultier is quite wearable, especially the image, which presents a combination of black pants, delicate white top and improvised corset worn over the outfit, - concluded the expert.
How widely the royal aesthetic will find application in our everyday life - time will tell. Maybe another trend is about to announce itself louder, given that the shows on the world's catwalks continue. New York Fashion Week is in full swing. London, Milan, Paris are next on the list. And if not, you should not get rid of sweatshirts when you get corsets and crinolines - since fashion is cyclical, who knows, maybe they will return to their former glory someday.
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