Russian developers have entrusted AI calculations for cosmetics

If the news about the flying Tesla makes you look up, then another trend will make you take a closer look at yourself. Scientists have proven that artificial intelligence is equally good at programming autopilots and calculating molecules for an ideal appearance. The global beauty market is rapidly turning into a kind of space laboratory. This is confirmed by the international exhibition Intercharm, which is taking place in Moscow. How can optical scanners make a diagnosis in seconds, and hardware technologies replace marketers? The correspondent of Izvestia, Kristina Morozova, told in more detail in the story.

Making cosmetics has always been considered an art where the manufacturer and marketer had the final say. Today, rigorous mathematics and modern technology have entered this industry. Artificial intelligence evaluates the formula, the percentage of active substance input, and clinical evidence.

"Through AI, we can run certain formulations, Google and collect information about new components: where, how they are used, how much they can really help hair, face and body skin," said brand manager Anna Romanova.

Digital platforms work right in the laboratory. In Stavropol, one of them calculates the protein structure in advance so that it is guaranteed to penetrate into the deep layers of the skin.

"In total, it takes about 200 days from the idea to the finished molecule, and under normal conditions it takes about two to three years," said Albert Bolatchiev, CEO of the company that develops molecules for cosmetics manufacturers.

And in Novosibirsk Akademgorodok, these computer calculations are turned into ready-made cosmetic lines. The peptide complexes are combined with marine iodine and Siberian extracts.

"We have a large contract production facility in Novosibirsk Akademgorodok. We use the developments of the Siberian Academy of Sciences. Our products contain the most modern, innovative assets, for example, the famous DDR, RNA, DNA deoxyribonucleic acid, and the placental complex of the Altai maral," said Anna Syzranova, director of the cosmetics company.

But even the most modern formula needs precise delivery. The industry has solved this issue with the help of hardware technology.

The global market for computer skin analysis has already reached close to two billion dollars. Smart devices are a new trend. Optical scanners make an accurate diagnosis in a second, and LED masks and microcurrents make cosmetic formulas work twice as efficiently.

This trend was brought to Russia from Korea. Smart scanners are placed everywhere there: in shops, medical clinics, beauty salons.

"We are currently looking for a distributor of our products in Russia. Our devices are powered by artificial intelligence. We develop both the software and the hardware ourselves," said Sangjin John, a representative of the Korean cosmetics brand.

This is a tectonic shift for the industry: the days when cosmetics were bought by dozens of cans at random are going away. Sensors and algorithms take over the routine agony of choice, saving a person from endless doubts.

"We see that this greatly speeds up the cosmetics production process: formula development, design creation. This facilitates the work of specialists. Therefore, artificial intelligence has firmly entered the cosmetic life. Beauty AI is becoming an integral part of the daily life of both consumers and professionals working in the industry," said Anna Dycheva—Smirnova, Managing Director of Exprovisionrus and organizer of Intercharm.

The main task of all these technologies is not to complicate a person's life, but to make the market simple and understandable. After all, in Russia alone, about 80 thousand new cosmetic products appear per year.

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This year, the InterCHARM International Exhibition brought together manufacturers from more than 60 cities and 39 regions of Russia on October 15. In total, over 1,700 companies from 30 countries are represented at it. The stands feature cosmetics and perfumes, raw materials, packaging, equipment and new developments for the beauty industry. And if a few years ago the main issue was supplies and access to components, now the market has been rebuilt and uses new routes.