Russian Tatar Nature Reserve: what to see and eat in Kasimov
Modest by modern standards, the town of Kasimov in the Ryazan region hides a rich and vibrant history behind the facades of merchant mansions. It was once the center of the Kasimov Khanate, and Russian and Tatar heritage still harmoniously coexist here. Add here the Meschery National Park, which stretches around, and you will get a ready—made route for a diverse and informative journey. The Izvestia correspondent went to Kasimov for exploration together with the Prospace project to verify this personally.
History of the city
To begin with, Kasimov is almost the same age as Moscow. Officially, its first mention in the chronicle dates back to 1152. Then it was called Gorodets Meshchersky and served as one of the border fortresses of Yuri Dolgoruky. The city received its current name already in the XV century, in honor of the Tatar prince Kasym. In 1446, Kasym, along with his brother Yakub, left Kazan for Russia. Fleeing from the persecution of their elder brother, they asked Vasily the Dark for intercession in exchange for service. A few years later, in gratitude for his loyalty, Vasily granted Kasym lands. Thus, the Kasimov Khanate appeared along the banks of the Oka River.
It quickly turned into a significant Tatar and Muslim center, which the Russian princes got away with: in negotiations with Muslim rulers, including Kazan, they could show that their co-religionists were respected in Russia. Suffice it to recall that it was Semyon Bekbulatov, a native of Kasimov, who Ivan the Terrible installed in his place for several months. Here, after the fall of Kazan, the harsh ruler exiled the legendary Kazan queen Suyumbike, where she died in an unhappy marriage a few years later.
In general, not all the rapprochement with the Russian tsars for the local rulers and the nobility went smoothly. Already in the 17th century, the daughter of the Kasimov governor Afimya Vsevolozhskaya almost became the wife of Alexei Mikhailovich Romanov. But at the crucial moment, the girl lost consciousness — it is believed that the servants at the royal court, according to the teachings of boyar Morozov, tightened the heavy precious crown on her head too tightly. The girl was accused of hiding a falling sickness, and she and her whole family were sent into exile, and the city still remembers the sad fate of the Kasimov bride.
In general, as you might guess, with such historical introductions, Kasimov has something to tell and show tourists.
Kasimov Museums: from Samovar to Andersen
It is better to start a visit to the city from Cathedral Square. Firstly, it offers a picturesque view of the Oka River and the buildings of the ancient Shopping malls. And secondly, the Kasimov Tourist Information Center is located in one of the recently renovated buildings. There you can decide on a further route, look at one of the regularly updated exhibitions and even search for information about the ancestors born in this county on a special multimedia panel.
This is where the Kasimovskaya Verst begins, where most of the city's museums are located. Fans of the atmosphere of the 20th century should take a look at the "Apartment from the Past" located near the Cathedral Square, which carefully recreates the interior of the apartment of Kasimov's teacher, who lived here in the 1960s.
The nearby Museum of the Vyrkovskaya Toy definitely deserves attention. An aesthetic and unexpectedly modern exposition, invented by Evgeniya Stroikova, a native of Kasimov, tells about the history of the disappeared clay industry. Here you can also stock up on stylish souvenirs and sign up for a master class on working with clay.
You can immerse yourself in the history of the khanate, listen to stories about enterprising Kasimov merchants and learn local legends at the Museum of local lore, located in the elegant mansion of the Alyanchikov merchants.
A little further along the Kasimovskaya verst there is a local Samovar Museum, which is definitely worth a look. The collection assembled by enthusiast Mikhail Silkov is impressive. Among the approximately 400 specimens, you can find treasures for every taste: an avant-garde satellite samovar and an elegant bouillon (don't ask what it is, it's better to go on a museum tour) in the form of a steam train, a real Chinese khogo and a samovar, according to legend, made by the Batashev brothers as a gift to the young Nicholas II. The latter is decorated with intricate curls suspiciously reminiscent of a ballerina's leg. In general, there will be something to see and listen to.
By the way, in Kasimov you can find traces of not only Russian and Tatar, but also Scandinavian culture. Anna Hansen was born here. Together with her husband, Peter Hansen, she was one of the first in Russia to translate Andersen's fairy tales, Kierkegaard's works and Ibsen's plays. The Hansens spent most of their lives in St. Petersburg (where they met), but they remember their native in Kasimov — a small private museum is dedicated to her.
Tatarskaya Sloboda: an ancient minaret and the legend of Suyumbik
After a walk along the Kasimovskaya verst, you can go to Tatarskaya Sloboda. You should definitely see the ancient Khan's mosque here. The building itself was rebuilt in the XVIII–XIX centuries, but the characteristic minaret has remained unchanged since the XVI century.
According to legend, which is carefully preserved in the city, Peter the Great, sailing along the Oka River on a ship, mistakenly crossed himself on it, mistaking it for the bell tower of an Orthodox church. When the tsar was told what had happened, he angrily ordered the minaret to be shot from the ship's cannons. However, after cooling off, he donated money to restore the damaged upper part and left the minaret standing on the condition that it would be inferior in height to the Orthodox churches of Kasimov.
There are also plenty of Orthodox churches in Kasimov. Here you can visit the Kazan Convent, the Assumption Church and the Ascension Cathedral, located near the Shopping Malls.
Not far from the Khan's Mosque, you can also find a monument to the legendary Syuyumbika — according to legend, the rebellious queen was forcibly exiled here after the capture of Kazan. Ivan the Terrible took Suyumbike's son to Moscow, and married her off to the local Khan Shah Ali. However, the proud ruler did not accept this decision — in Kasimov they believe that she tried to poison her unloved husband. When he understood her plan, he imprisoned Suyumbike in the shah's palace, where she died a few years later. The place of her burial is not known for sure — her husband, offended by Syuyumbike, took care of complete oblivion.
Monument to Queen Suyumbika in Kasimov
But the tomb — the tekiye — of Shah Ali himself can be found on the other side of the mosque. It is one of the main architectural monuments of Kasimov and one of the few Muslim monuments of the XVI century in Russia.
When you have finished exploring the key attractions, do not rush to leave Tatarskaya Sloboda immediately. Around the square, you can see the mansions of Tatar merchants, including the house of the merchants of the Kastrovs, one of the most prominent merchant dynasties not only in Kasimov, but throughout Russia. If you visit the Tatar Center located nearby (it is better to do this by appointment), you can learn more about the life of the Kasimov Tatars and even take part in a master class on Arabic script.
In the footsteps of Gaidai and Petrov: cinema in Kasimov
Another of Kasimov's many hypostases is cinema. Thanks to the preserved old buildings and picturesque views of the Oka River, films have been shot here for many years.
Among other things, the pre—revolutionary silent film "The High-society Wanderer" by Boris Svetlov was shot here, as well as "Incognito from St. Petersburg" by Leonid Gaidai, the military drama "Battalions ask for Fire" by Chebotarev and Bogolyubov, "The Muslim" by Vladimir Khotinenko and many others. Not so long ago, the film "The Postman" with the participation of Alexander Petrov was released on the screens — you can also learn Kasimov's views there.
You can still find yourself in real movie decorations today — the Kasimovfilm field site operates at the former sheepskin and fur factory. Film crews come here in search of a rich nature — an old merchant's mansion and factory interiors, and tourists can come with an excursion.
Kasimov's neighborhood: the local Vassa Zheleznova and the Batashev legends
Having arrived in Kasimov, it is absolutely not necessary to spend all the time in the city. The Meschera National Park stretches around with picturesque water meadows and breathtaking views of the Oka River, so it is not only possible, but also necessary to drive around the surroundings. Moreover, history lovers will also find a lot of interesting things there.
The small town of Yelatma, for example, was once one of the gymnasium centers of the empire — one of the first female gymnasiums in Russia was opened here. And Maxim Gorky found the prototype of the main character of his play "Vassa Zheleznova" in this town. Maria Popova, a resident of Yelatma, was the wife of a local timber merchant, and bore him seven children. After the sudden death of her husband, she did not give up — she put all the children on their feet and expanded the business by renting steamboats. The Popova House, known as the House with Character, still stands in the city. In 2018, it was bought and gradually restored by Tatiana, a resident of Moscow. Now she is retired and permanently resides in the house, but anyone can get into the house for a tour or even stay overnight.
For details of the sinister history of local industrialists Batashev, it is better to go to Gus-Zhelezny, located about half an hour's drive from Kasimov. There you can still see the remains of their Eagle's Nest estate and the majestic pseudo-Gothic Trinity Cathedral, which took more than 60 years to build.
To take a little break from the dark legends surrounding this family, it's worth arranging in advance for a performance at the local Manor Theater, inspired by the plays that were once staged here for the Batashevs.
What to eat: Tatar lavashes, a feast from Andersen and from Balakirev the fool
Naturally, once in Kasimov, it is impossible not to try the Tatar cuisine. For a local flavor, it's best to go to the Tatar Fairy Tale ethnocafe, where you can also have a master class on making local pastries.
In the Pilgrim cafe, you can pre—order a thematic interactive lunch "Assembly at Balakirev's Fool", during which you will be told about another iconic figure for the city - the confidant of Peter I and Empress Catherine, Ivan Balakirev. Having achieved the status of a court jester, he preferred to spend his last years in the silence of the Kasimov estate, given to him by the first Russian emperor. And fans of Andersen's fairy tales can pre-book a dinner based on his stories at the Kasimovsky Dvorik family restaurant.
But it would be wrong to think that everything in the city is limited to historical or ethnic motives. So, lovers of good coffee will have a pleasant surprise waiting for them at the Keeper Of Grains coffee shop — all relevant drinks are prepared here using their own roasted grains. You can buy them right on the spot or in a store with modern production, which is located near Kasimov.
Chocolate is another unobvious gastronomic attraction of the city. There are several chocolate factories operating here that can offer unusual handmade tiles with berries, candied fruits, pistachios and other delights.
How to get there and where to stay
The journey to Kasimov from Moscow by car — in our case, it was a passable T1 SUV from Jetour — will take about four to five hours. It is best to drive along the new M-12 highway.
You can stay both in the city — a fairly large Kasimov hotel is considered the best here — and in the surrounding area to enjoy the beauty of the Meshchersk nature. Moreover, new glamping sites and guest houses are being actively built around Kasimov, for example, the picturesque Bumblebee complex and the cozy Zhukova Gora Hotel.
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