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- In search of a shadow: Russians are swapping the bustling resorts of the Bay for a quiet Turkish harbor
In search of a shadow: Russians are swapping the bustling resorts of the Bay for a quiet Turkish harbor
The Turkish summer, which is not found in glossy magazines, is full of the taste of fresh homemade cheese, the scalding icy waters of mountain rivers, the silence of ancient caves and the misty haze on the emerald plateaus. Nature itself has created a giant air conditioner that has been working without interruption for several millennia. Izvestia has compiled routes where you can hide from the heat in Antalya, while the world outside Turkey froze in anxious anticipation amid the war in the Middle East.
Following in the footsteps of the nomads
In the summer, when Antalya's resorts are flooded with tourists, most of the locals who are not employed in the tourism industry mysteriously disappear. They are leaving a city with red-hot concrete, which even at night breathes heat, to a place where the air smells of pine resin and icy rivers flow.
The habit of going with families to yayly, the high—altitude summer pastures, for the whole summer, appeared back in the days of nomadic Turkic tribes. The herders drove the herds away from the scorched plain to places where the grass was greener and the air cooler. Those days are in the past, but the habit, or rather the cultural code of the Turks, has remained.
It is necessary to get to yayly along mountain serpentines, but the result is worth every turn. At an altitude of 1.5–2 thousand meters above sea level, the temperature drops by 10-15 degrees. At night you have to sleep under a blanket, and in the morning a thick fog spreads over the meadows, smelling of thyme and mint.
Near Kemer there are plateaus resembling alpine meadows, on which there are tiny houses and village cafes where you can drink hot tea from a small glass or coffee brewed on the sand in a copper cezve. Here you can order hot gozleme tortillas cooked in a wood-burning oven and stuffed with meat, cheese, spinach or potatoes to experience authentic Turkish hospitality.
There, under the sound of pine trees and mountain rivers, a real Turkish summer unfolds. Not something that is shown in tourist booklets, but something that has settled in the heart of every local resident. A summer full of smoke from the barbecue, the taste of fresh cheese, icy water from the spring and long conversations over tea.
Giant outdoor air conditioner
If you can't go to the mountains, but you want to cool off immediately, you can visit a unique Turkish invention — river cafes. One of these places of worship is located 15 km south of Kemer, just beyond the famous Chiraly Valley, where the Chimera fire burns, in Ulupinar, which translates as "the great spring".
This is not just a village or a tourist hub, but a breath of freshness hidden in the mountains, where nature itself has built itself a giant air conditioner that has been working without interruption for several millennia. Ice streams are formed in the bowels of the Taurus Mountains, which break out at the foot of the massif. This water is not just cold — it is scaldingly icy, and in the wildest heat, a misty haze spreads over the streams, as if the mountains are breathing, releasing steam from their stone chest.
At the same time, all kinds of fruits and berries are basking in the sun: lemons, oranges, mulberries, avocados, olive trees and laurel bushes grow.
Wooden platforms and verandas are lined up along the main street, overhanging the raging mountain stream. You can sit at tables with chairs or, like many locals, sit on low sofas with pillows.
The cafe's visitors are literally a meter away from the icy roaring water stream. To this symphonic sound, the main dish is brought — river trout, which was swimming in crystal water half an hour ago. It is prepared simply: grilled, with lemon and herbs, without unnecessary culinary delights. But it is precisely this simplicity that captivates.
After the fish melts in your mouth, it's best to order hot Turkish tea. You should drink it slowly, in small sips, watching the water flow over the mossy stones. You can dip your feet into the icy water to enjoy how the noise of the stream drowns out the alarms. In the intense heat, locals order fruits — chilled watermelons and melons.
At some point, time seems to cease to exist, thoughts become fewer and fewer, and feelings of peace increase. People come here to slow down, remember the taste of real cool water and breathe fresh air.
Hide in secret caves
Caves are another favorite natural area for tourists and locals alike. Next to Kemer is the cold-breathing Gedelme Mağarası.
They reach it along winding serpentines, and with each new turn, civilization remains behind, giving way to pine forests and cliffs. The temperature drops with every step of the stairs. If it's +38 outside, then it doesn't consistently exceed 15 degrees here.
Walking down the wooden stairs into the world of stalactites and stalagmites, you realize that they are tens of thousands of years old. The high vaults of the cave sometimes reach 15 m, the corridor goes deep for about 150 m, crystal clear water drips from above in some places.
Tourists who go to conquer caves are advised to take care of shoes and clothes first: do not wear flip-flops and sandals, but sneakers with non-slip soles, and also grab a hoodie or windbreaker.
There is a small cafe nearby where you can enjoy aromatic tea or coffee and taste traditional local cuisine. At the same time, there are no crowds of tourists, intrusive service and loud music — just what you need to put your thoughts in order.
The popular Beldibi Cave is a 20-minute drive from Kemer. Inside is a real geological museum, carved with the help of water for thousands of years.
Stalactites hang from the ceiling like giant stone icicles, stalagmites stretch towards them from below, and in some places they have already met, forming bizarre stalagmite columns. Despite the cave's popularity, there are no souvenir shops or intrusive touts near it. There is peace and quiet everywhere.
The Chalysh cave is more severe, its vaults are higher, the corridors are wider, and somewhere in the depths an underground river murmurs. The acoustics here are perfect: each drop sounds so clear and voluminous that it seems as if the cave itself is talking.
You can also breathe in the fresh cool air in Karain Cave, where the temperature drops to a comfortable 18 degrees. It's usually crowded here because whole Turkish families come here.
Under the noise of the waterfall
In search of refreshing coolness in hot Antalya, you can go to the snow-white slopes of Pamukkale. One of the main spa complexes of antiquity is still operating without interruption. The temperature of the thermal water is kept at 36 degrees all year round. In the heat, this contrast does not give the body overheating at all, but a pleasant relaxation. In addition, there is enough shade around the pool to comfortably spend time.
And a walk along the travertine terraces will give you the necessary coolness. At first it may seem like it's snow or ice, but in fact it's calcareous deposits from calcium springs that have created 17 tiers of pools over thousands of years. The water flowing down from a height of 200 m contains calcium and bicarbonate, which crystallize in the sun.
Waterfalls are also used to escape from the stuffiness in the vicinity of Antalya. There are two of them in the city itself — Upper Duden and Lower Duden. The first is a park with shady alleys, where it is easy to hide from the midday sun, water falls from a height of about 15-20 m into a small lake. There is a cave under the waterfall where you can enter to feel the power of nature.
The second is a real symbol of Antalya — a spectacular flight of water from a forty—meter cliff directly into the Mediterranean Sea.
You can have breakfast or just sit on the terrace by the water near the Manavgat waterfall. Its height is small — only about 3-4 m, but it is very wide — almost 60 m.
In addition to the coolness, tourists and locals are looking for genuine silence in the unsuspected corners of Kemer. In the Goynuk gorge, deep in the Ulupinar valley, at the top of the Chalysh Mountain, calm begins to envelop them. Silence heals, helps to organize thoughts, and restores the ability to hear oneself. In today's world, such a respite is especially important.
Safety first
It's no longer enough for tourists to have a beach holiday, they want to put together their own puzzle of impressions, they need personal experience, stories that can be told to friends on long winter evenings.
The events taking place in the Middle East could prevent this from happening. The war in the region initially even slowed down the pace of bookings among Russian tourists. But this was especially true for Arab resorts. Turkey, as always, has remained a proven destination, a "safe haven" for domestic travelers who seemed to have already become accustomed to turbulence in the form of the coronavirus pandemic, sanctions and other aggravations of the situation.
First of all, Russians are attracted by safe logistics — flights to Turkish resorts bypass the war zone, as well as trust in the developed All-Inclusive structure.
Ekaterina Voronina, Director of marketing and e-commerce at Fun&Sun, one of the largest Russian tour operators, said that Turkey occupies 35% of Russian summer bookings, maintaining its leading position.
"Turkey is an understandable product for Russian travelers, the summer season continues here in October and November, and this year we plan to send a million of our tourists to this country," explained Svetlana Slavina, head of Product Development at Fun&Sun.
According to her, planes will fly to the Turkish Republic from 26 Russian cities this season.
Ekaterina Voronina added that before the war in the Middle East, 67% of tourists considered this region as an option for recreation.
"Now tourists choose destinations with similar weather conditions. For 72% of travelers, the cost of the trip was the decisive factor when choosing an alternative destination. The climate is also very important," she said.
Against the background of geopolitical tensions, security has become a priority. "Tourists are massively changing their plans in favor of safe countries. Also, the choice of customers determines the availability of convenient flights — direct flights are very important," Voronina said.
According to Anna Malinina, Deputy General Director for Sales and Marketing at Fun&Sun, "early booking gave the season a strong start this year — 38% of the 2026 summer volume was realized by the end of April."
"Late demand does not mean cheap demand. Popular hotels still get a load, and during peak season, the selection will only decrease. Good hotels should be booked in advance, at least a month before the trip," the expert explained.
The specialist also stressed that the decision to purchase a tour increasingly depends on the price and the feeling of security.
"In the context of turbulence in the tourism market, the role of travel agents is also increasing. Travelers turn to agencies in search of greater security in the event of an emergency. 49% of tourists book tours abroad through a travel agency or a tour operator," the company's top manager summed up.
Переведено сервисом «Яндекс Переводчик»
