Champagne Guest: what will be the new sparkling wine standard in Russia
Rosstandart is developing a new national sparkling wine standard, which will replace the general document of 2017 and strengthen quality control from raw materials to bottles. The GOST is currently undergoing an expert discussion before approval. Experts and sparkling wine market participants disagree: some see the appearance of a new standard as a chance to gain customer trust, while others fear marketing margins and barriers for small businesses. For more information, see the Izvestia article.
Why do we need a new GOST
A new state standard (GOST) is currently being prepared at the government level for Russian sparkling wines. The document will replace the previous version adopted in 2017, Rosstandart told Izvestia.
This GOST, as explained to the editors in Roskachestvo, will clarify terms such as "sparkling wine with a protected geographical indication" and "sparkling wine with a protected appellation of origin", thereby bringing them into line with the main industry law (Federal Law No. 468 "On Viticulture and Winemaking in the Russian Federation").
In addition, the new standard introduces for the first time such a concept as "petnat" — a sparkling wine produced by the so-called "grandfather" method (the wine is bottled until the end of the primary fermentation), which only recently appeared and became widespread in the practice of Russian winemaking. According to Roskachestvo estimates, this category should have its own definition and description of the technology, which, by the way, differs from sparkling wines produced by the reservoir or classical method.
The new GOST also introduces the concept of wine by the "Asti method" — this is how light sparkling wines are prepared using the reservoir method in the popular fruit style of aroma and taste.
The press service of Roskachestvo clarified that the developed document is the national standard GOST R, which will be valid only in the Russian Federation and apply only to Russian sparkling wines. At the same time, the effect of the interstate standard is not canceled and there are no contradictions to its requirements. The general regulatory framework for the EAEU countries remains in place.
Russia needed a new GOST that complies with the federal law on winemaking, emphasizes Alexander Stavtsev, Vice President of the Association of Retail Market Experts and head of the WineRetail information Center.
— After all, we now have an interstate standard that applies to several countries, including Belarus, where there is practically no industrial viticulture, — explains the expert.
This standard does not fully meet the Russian realities, where wine is produced from domestic grapes. Therefore, the new document is published as a national standard (GOST R), and not an interstate one. This gives greater flexibility: it does not need to be coordinated with all the member countries of the Customs Union, which is also important, the specialist clarifies.
The previous interstate standard GOST 33336-2015 "Sparkling wines. General Technical Conditions" was introduced in 2017. This document regulated the requirements for sparkling wines, including their classification, production, packaging and labeling.
What will the new labeling do?
The new standard risks getting lost among bright labels and promotions if it is not supported by simple communication for consumers accustomed to foreign labels and guided by price and design, warns Alexander Stavtsev.
— It is worth recalling that, unlike in Soviet times, there is no criminal liability for violating GOST standards today. The standard can be applied, but it is possible to work within the manufacturer's technical specifications — this is his right," the Izvestia interlocutor clarifies.
According to him, GOST actually regulates higher quality categories related to geographical indicators, designed for a more sophisticated consumer. At the same time, the old standard is not being abolished: the new document only complements the existing regulatory framework.
As a result, another label will simply appear, says Vladimir Kosenko, head of the development of the premium portfolio of still and sparkling wines at Luding Group. But the consumer's attitude to the product will still be based on how much pleasure from it correlates with the price. Brands that for some reason will not be able to meet the requirements of GOST will not be labeled as Russian sparkling wine.
— And here I will note that there are now a lot of brands that are sold in large volumes, being just a wine drink. You can sell yourself due to the fact that you are a Russian sparkling wine, or you can create your own strong brand and stay in the right price category. Business provides an opportunity for both," says the expert.
How will the new GOST affect the market and manufacturers
The flexibility of Russian regulation allows small farms to work according to technical specifications, turning GOST from a potential filter into a guideline that structures the assortment without loss of diversity, Alexander Stavtsev draws attention.
— Take, for example, wine in cans. It appeared as an independent phenomenon only in the last three years, and this category can already be spelled out in the new GOST," the expert emphasizes.
At the same time, the quality departments and divisions of retailers that monitor product compliance with internal control procedures will receive reliable guidance: wine produced in accordance with GOST and technical specifications will have a higher value as verified products, he clarifies.
However, the manufacturer will still decide for himself how to take advantage of the new features. It is important to understand that Russian winemaking is currently undergoing a structuring stage: the share of domestic grapes is growing, the number of producers and production volumes are increasing, says Mikhail Mironchev, Director of Development at Interconsult and Great.
"In such conditions, it becomes necessary to clearly define the requirements specifically for the category of Russian sparkling wines, the origin of raw materials, technological parameters and product characteristics," the Izvestia interlocutor believes.
The new GOST standard for Russian sparkling wines is a step towards improving the quality and transparency of the market, but it requires a balance so as not to harm small businesses, the expert warns.
How will the innovations affect the quality
The sparkling wine market in Russia is adapting to the voluntary standard through the rebranding of budget positions and cost allocation along the chain, preserving the choice for the buyer without radically increasing prices for the mass segment, experts say. Previously, as predicted by Olga Lutseva-Er, CEO of the research company NeoAnalytics, the cost will increase by 5-15%.
"If this GOST is supposed to be voluntary, then many budget sparkling wines will be produced according to specifications, which, in turn, will offset the price increase in some way," she admits.
The new standard should not have a global impact on the cost of wine, the availability of beverages, or production processes, agrees the head of the Popular Front. Analytics" by Olga Pozdnyakova. It will only identify the products that match it. At the same time, other drinks will not be prohibited from sale, so the choice will remain with the buyer.
At the same time, in practice, the issue of the separation of sparkling wines and sparkling grape drinks has already been resolved in Russia, recalls Oleg Nikolaev, co-founder of the Sevastopol Association of winegrowers and winemakers.
— Until recently, the undemanding consumer was really led by the nose in this regard (and he himself was happy to be deceived by putting inexpensive alcoholic soda on the table). Now everything has become clear to everyone," the expert emphasizes.
The new GOST has potential, but only in conjunction with consumer-friendly guidelines. As the experience of Roskachestvo (the Russian Wine Guide project) shows, consumers really need navigators on the shelf: already today, about 7% of Russians are interested in the results of wine ratings, and 20 million people actively use their recommendations.
— In my opinion, GOST creates new opportunities rather than introducing additional restrictions. The document was written by people who understand practical winemaking: which categories are in demand now and which may be in demand in the future. For example, some experimental styles that winemakers are already developing have not been legislated anywhere before — de facto, such products existed in a gray area. Now it can be produced within the framework of the standard," Alexander Stavtsev is convinced.
The introduction of a separate GOST for Russian sparkling wines is needed right now, because the category itself has already "grown" in the market, says Alexey Solovyov, Director of Wine development at the Bely Mys Testing Laboratory Center, President of the Association of Cavists of Russia. According to him, Russian sparkling wine has long ceased to be just a "festive bottle on the shelf" — style, competition, ambitions and a noticeably higher level of producer responsibility have appeared inside the market.
— The new GOST should become a tool to restore order and strengthen confidence in the domestic product, and not turn into a purely marketing ploy. It is very important not to confuse the standard with marketing," the expert believes.
The wine itself will not get better just because a new word or sign has appeared on the label, the expert explained. The new GOST will be useful only if it has requirements for raw materials, technology, traceability and control. Without this, the document may not become a working tool for the buyer.
— Consumers still often choose with their eyes — according to a stock, a familiar brand, or a beautiful bottle. Therefore, GOST is an important step, but only one of the steps. It can help strong and conscientious producers, but it is important that it does not become an excessive barrier for small farms, which create a vibrant variety of Russian wine," the source concludes.
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