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The expanse of beauty: the Russian beauty industry has received innovative developments
Innovative developments in the beauty industry that have received patents over the past two years have been presented in Russia, Rospatent's Izvestia learned. Among them is the technology of obtaining "living" DNA from salmon, an innovative method of surgical facial plastic surgery, as well as a special type of collagen material, with which the demand for procedures is growing. More and more Russians are abandoning fillers, choosing biostimulators that make the skin work, experts said. About promising new products and trends in the field of beauty — in the material of Izvestia.
Why do cosmetologists need salmon DNA and snail powder?
Over the past few years, there has been a steady increase in the number of patent applications in the field of medical technologies in Russia, the Federal Intellectual Property Service (Rospatent) told Izvestia.
"Domestic innovators are actively applying for inventions and utility models," said Yuri Zubov, head of Rospatent. — In total, approximately 4 thousand applications were received for medical developments in 2025. Such indicators indicate the powerful scientific potential of Russian scientists and the great influence of their inventions on world medicine, including advances in cosmetology.
For example, a group of scientists from Sechenov University has created a complex of cosmetics based on the secretome of mesenchymal stem cells (biologically active substances that cells release into the environment).
It contains growth factors and cytokines (peptide molecules), through which it is possible to control the behavior of living cells: accelerate their renewal processes or have an anti-inflammatory effect.
"The cream is intended for day and night use — it is the basic product in the cosmetic line. The serum provides a moisturizing effect, and the patches are designed to be applied in areas with local problems of dehydration or wrinkle formation," follows from the description of the invention.
A technology for obtaining "living" DNA, including from representatives of sturgeon and salmonids, has been patented in Rostov-on-Don. The innovative method can be effectively used in anti—aging therapy and biorevitalization (a procedure based on the introduction of hyaluronic acid into the deep layers of the dermis), Anna Feoktistova, the creator of the technology, the founder of ReDermaLab, a company in the field of scientific research and biodegradation, is convinced.
The raw materials are finely chopped and frozen, and after defrosting they are treated with special substances that break down proteins. A little acid is added to the resulting mixture to break up the DNA chains, then the pure product is isolated with alcohol.
"Such a DNA molecule is able to penetrate human skin, improving the ability of nutrients to reach deep layers of the skin and body tissues. This increases the effectiveness of cosmetics, medicines, and medical procedures," the description says.
And experts from the North Caucasus Federal Scientific Agricultural Center have patented a new method for producing powder from grape snails.
"It has an increased content of biologically active substances, better nutritional value and higher quality with a long shelf life," the patent says. — Snails are kept on starvation for at least two days, after which they are frozen, the meat is separated from the shell and dried at -40 ... -50 degrees. Next, they reduce the pressure and remove the remaining moisture, while maintaining a stable appearance."
A new device for effective cleaning, peeling and resurfacing of the skin was invented by Mikhail Popok, a developer and project manager for the development of aesthetic industry enterprises.
"The device sprays water in small droplets along with air, they move quickly and gently remove old skin cells," the description says. — Drops of such a small size cause minimal damage to the skin, making the procedure safe and fast. In addition, this technology is suitable for injecting nutrients deep into the skin."
Become younger in one procedure
Scientists from Krasnoyarsk State Medical University named after Professor V.F. Voino-Yasenetsky of the Ministry of Health of the Russian Federation have proposed an innovative method of surgical facial plastic surgery. According to them, it will give you the opportunity to become younger in one procedure. This method allows you to eliminate signs of aging in several areas of the face at once, work out the cheekbones and jaw line separately, and most importantly, avoid the mask effect. After the manipulation, the face looks natural, the facial expressions are preserved, and the traces of the operation are almost invisible.
Irina Aksenenko, a cosmetologist and head of the Aksemed clinic, also proposed a new tactic to combat age-related skin changes on the face and neck. She has developed a mathematically sound diagnostic method that allows you to individually select the treatment for the patient's skin condition and eliminate the risk of "empty" procedures.
"Facial and neck rejuvenation is usually based on a visual assessment of the patient's skin by a doctor and the patient's wishes. We can say that this is a conveyor work. Currently, in clinical practice, there are no objective criteria for choosing tactics for the treatment of age-related changes using physiotherapy and chemical exposure based on quantitative indicators of ultrasound scanning of the skin. This makes the selection of procedures subjective," the patent description says.
The Moscow-based Biofarm Holding company has developed an innovative type of collagen material that can be used in science and medicine, for example, for skin care and rapid tissue repair after surgery. Collagen is processed using a special technique that ensures better tissue healing. It is used by surgeons and dentists to treat skin, bones and other organs.
How beauty trends are changing
A trend towards total naturalness has come to Russia: patients massively abandon fillers and prefer methods that do not require long-term rehabilitation, cosmetologist Daria Ponomareva told Izvestia.
"They're moving from hyaluronic acid to biostimulants that make the skin work," she explained. — Preparations based on polylactic acid and DNA of salmonid fish, polynucleotides (PDRN), have become the leaders. Their popularity has more than doubled, and this is justified. Polynucleotides are not fillers, but bioreparators. Fragments of DNA from salmonids, similar in structure to human ones, trigger regeneration, improve microcirculation and, most importantly, stimulate cells to produce their own collagen.
Drugs with PDRN work to improve skin quality and hydration, but require a cumulative effect, the doctor noted. However, according to her, botulinum therapy remains the absolute leader among the procedures.
— In addition to rejuvenation, patient requests have become more complex. Clients now come not for "lips", but for solving specific problems: to remove the effects of acne, even out the tone, or restore skin elasticity against the background of chronic stress, the expert said.
Last year, Russians gave more than 11 million beauty injections, and products with botulinum toxins and collagen were in the highest demand. Such data was provided by the company "Right to Health" at the Beauty Business Connect forum in February 2026.
"The increased demand for collagen treatments is a feature of the Russian market," explained Olga Goncharova, the company's executive director. — Such injections can effectively combat visible age-related changes, and the demand for them is growing among both male and female audiences. And the number of botulinum toxin treatments performed in Russia in 2025 has doubled compared to the previous year.
The popularity of collagen has a downside — there are more and more unregistered products in Russia, Olga Goncharova emphasized.
How to deal with the "grey" market
Up to 55% of cosmetology services in Russia are performed without a medical license — in beauty salons or at home, analysts of the company "Right to Health" have estimated.
— Licensing means the availability of a specially equipped room with a sanitary and epidemiological conclusion, as well as a mandatory list of medical equipment and professional personnel. This allows us to ensure the quality and safety of services," Elena Sheshko, Deputy head of Roszdravnadzor, said during the forum.
In addition, more than 60% of botulinum toxins sold in 2025 were sold at retail — in regular pharmacies," said Egor Zhavoronkov, head of the Pharma department at the Center for the Development of Advanced Technologies. These drugs can only be purchased by legal entities for use in licensed clinics, he explained.
Experts agreed that it is necessary to tighten the retail turnover of products used in aesthetic medicine, which will be one of the important steps in the fight against the "gray" market.
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