The expert spoke about the main trends of the premium jewelry segment

Until recently, premium jewelry was associated with a special occasion and a "go-out" status, but today the very idea of luxury is noticeably changing. She becomes more conscious, personal, and adaptable to real life. Taisiya Iznova, Director of SOKOLOV's Category Management Department, told Izvestia on January 3 about what trends are currently shaping the premium jewelry segment and why large stones are no longer perceived as an unattainable rarity.

The modern buyer of premium jewelry is less likely to look for a status symbol in a product exclusively. Personal meaning and versatility come to the fore — jewelry is chosen to be worn every day, rather than stored "until a special occasion." This shift is related to the general trend towards reasonable consumption: even in the premium, it is not ostentatious luxury that is valued, but a sense of intimacy and emotional value.

"Today, jewelry is becoming an extension of personality. A personal stone, a favorite cut, a shape with an emotional reference or an engraving — personalization turns into a new form of luxury," Iznova noted.

At the same time, nostalgia returns to jewelry design. Vintage motifs, filigree, intricate castes and decorative elements with a sense of history are once again appearing in premium collections. Such jewelry does not look like a stylization of the past, but as objects with character and depth — as if they already have their own history.

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The key factor in the changes was the growing popularity of grown diamonds. They radically changed the market and lifted the restrictions that had previously held designers back. The price difference between natural and grown stones can reach several times today, which allowed jewelry houses to work with scale, and customers to choose expressive jewelry without compromising on design.

"Large stones, complex shapes, and asymmetry have become an integral part of the premium segment thanks to new technologies. Jewelry stopped being "careful," the expert said.

It also affected the aesthetics. Accent and oversized jewelry have firmly established themselves in the premium: diamond cuffs have become larger, and designers are increasingly working with sculptural shapes and fancy cuts. The visual expressiveness of the jewelry has noticeably increased, while they still remain wearable.

The change of flavors in the cuts deserves special attention. The classic round shape, which has dominated for decades, is gradually giving way to the oval and pear. Increasingly, complex mixes of cuts appear in collections, requiring fine work with the selection of stones and emphasizing the author's character of jewelry.

Technological techniques are also changing. For example, rolling, a type of fastening that was previously considered less commercial, is experiencing a new round of popularity today. Jewelers have learned how to work with it so that the stone retains its expressiveness, and the jewelry itself looks modern and concise. At the same time, the strict division into shades of gold is also disappearing: the mix of metals is becoming more and more in demand due to its versatility and vivacity.

Despite experimenting with shapes and colors, white diamonds do not lose ground. Their visual power, purity and versatility still make them the main symbol of the premium segment, but now — without feeling out of reach.

"We see a clear shift from the idea of jewelry with deferred value to the format of "daily luxury here and now." Premium is no longer about waiting, but about the pleasure of wearing," concluded Iznova.

On December 26, Iznova talked about how to combine jewelry so that they look harmonious. According to her, in the modern image, it is not the number of rings that is more important, but the overall composition on the hand. Large, smooth models and track rings look best on the thumb or index finger, designer accent jewelry on the index or middle finger, and seals are still a classic option for the little finger. Rings with large stones are increasingly worn on the index finger, which makes the image more expressive.