Brainwashing: how to distinguish good mineral cosmetics from bad ones
The fashion for any cosmetics can turn into trouble if you do not pay attention to the composition and your individual characteristics. Fans of mineral cosmetics in this sense are in a special risk zone. Poorly purified raw materials may contain impurities of heavy metals that adversely affect health. How to choose beauty products and what to look for when reading the packaging is in the Izvestia article.
Mica and oxides
Mineral cosmetics are products that contain crushed minerals: mica, zinc, titanium, silicon and iron oxides, explains Yana Shatskaya, a dermatologist, cosmetologist, and trichologist at the Be Healthy clinic on Sretenka. Such products are obtained by special treatment and purification, after which they are included in decorative or care formulas. This is a really useful alternative to traditional remedies, the expert emphasizes. But its safety directly depends on the quality of cleaning and the honesty of the manufacturer.
— The main rule for the buyer is to always read the composition, check for certificates and choose trusted brands. In this case, mineral cosmetics will really work for the health and beauty of the skin, and not against it," summarizes Yana Shatskaya.
The main components of mineral cosmetics:
Mica gives a soft glow, "highlights" the skin; improves the distribution of the product on the surface of the face; used in highlighters, shadows, powders.
— Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891) is a natural mineral filter against ultraviolet radiation (SPF effect); provides a coating density in foundation products; is used in powders and creams as a white pigment.
— Zinc Oxide (Zinc Oxide, CI 77947) has an anti-inflammatory and drying effect; protects against UV rays, is often included in sunscreens.
— Silicon dioxide (Silica) mattifies the skin; helps the product last longer.
— Iron Oxides (Iron Oxides: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499) are used as pigments of different shades: red, yellow, black;
— Calcium Carbonate - mattifying component; softens the texture of the product, facilitates application.
— Bismuth Oxychloride (Bismuth Oxychloride, CI 77163) gives a pearly glow; used in highlighters and shadows;
— Talc (Talc, CI 77718) is a classic powder filler that absorbs moisture and fat.
The pros and cons of mineral cosmetics
Yana Shatskaya notes that these products have a natural composition — there are no fragrances, parabens and preservatives, and their light texture allows the skin to "breathe." Under the condition of high-quality cleaning of raw materials, such cosmetics have hypoallergenic properties.
— Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide additionally serve as natural UV filters. In addition, zinc oxide reduces inflammation due to its antibacterial properties, so mineral cosmetics are suitable for skin prone to acne and irritation. And the absence of oils and sulfates minimizes the risk of clogged pores, suitable for oily and combination skin," comments Yana Shatskaya.
But these products have their drawbacks: in particular, they can emphasize dryness and peeling of the skin. And the decorative cosmetics of this line are less resistant than the classic ones. In addition, mineral cosmetics require proper application — by brush or in thin layers.
— These cosmetics are not suitable for solving deep skin problems (moisturizing, anti—aging care), and if used in such cases, it requires the addition of other care products, - explains Yana Shatskaya.
Mineral cosmetics are not always safe if the raw materials are of poor quality, warns Andrey Dorokhov, Associate Professor of the Department of Inorganic Chemistry named after A.N. Reformatsky of the Russian Technical University of the World.
— Mineral cosmetics are positioned as a natural, hypoallergenic and safe alternative to conventional decorative cosmetics, especially for owners of sensitive skin prone to allergic reactions. However, some unscrupulous manufacturers often use this labeling as a marketing ploy, not ensuring the proper quality of raw materials and purity of components," the expert clarifies.
Processing quality
The main danger, according to the scientist, is the poor quality of processing of mineral raw materials.
"Most mineral products, such as powders, blushes, and foundation products, are based on titanium dioxide and zinc oxide,— explains Andrey Dorokhov. — Titanium dioxide provides opacity and whiteness, acting as a UV filter in sunscreen products. Zinc oxide also has sun protection properties and is known for its anti-inflammatory effects.
These components are designed to "guard beauty," but if the manufacturer saves on cleaning raw materials, they may contain heavy metal impurities. With poor-quality processing and disruption of technological processes, nanoparticles of poorly processed components can penetrate the skin barrier. The danger is especially great in the presence of microtrauma, inflammation and prolonged, constant use of funds, warns Andrey Dorokhov.
"Nanoparticles of these substances, entering deeper layers of the skin, can provoke increased oxidative stress and chronic inflammatory reactions, which is especially risky for people with problematic or sensitive skin," explains the scientist.
The components for real mineral cosmetics must undergo a multi-stage cleaning, emphasizes Yana Shatskaya.
— If the manufacturer saves on this, then the substances titanium dioxide and zinc oxide may even contain impurities of heavy metals such as lead, arsenic and cadmium. With prolonged use, they are able to penetrate the skin barrier and provoke chronic inflammatory processes, the cosmetologist warns.
How to protect yourself when using mineral cosmetics:
Read the composition, look for mentions of Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891) and Zinc Oxide (CI 77947) — they should be marked non-nano or micronized, but not nano (nanoparticles penetrate the skin more easily);
Check the quality certificates (ECOCERT, COSMOS, FDA, European CE mark);
Give preference to trusted brands and pharmacy products.;
The pharmaceutical grade label also indicates the pharmaceutical purity of cosmetic products.
What is the danger of talc?
A particular risk when using mineral cosmetics is associated with talc, which is added to the products. According to the scientist, this natural mineral, magnesium hydrosilicate, gives cosmetics "silkiness" and the ability to absorb excess sebum. But the problem lies in the fact that natural talc often coexists in deposits with carcinogenic asbestos.
— According to the requirements of the technical regulations, talc should be thoroughly cleaned for cosmetics, it should not contain asbestos fibers. However, unscrupulous manufacturers may neglect the full purification of raw materials, which leads to the presence of dangerous mineral impurities in the final product," comments Andrey Dorokhov.
Another unpleasant point: using loose powder, you can inhale the fine talcum powder included in its composition. This is fraught with irritation of the respiratory tract and is associated with risks to the health of the bronchopulmonary system.
The scientist draws attention to the fact that the real threat to health arises primarily from the use of non-certified cosmetics.
— To minimize potential harm, it is recommended to buy products only from trusted manufacturers that ensure full transparency of the composition. Make sure that the products have all the necessary certificates of compliance with the requirements of the Eurasian Economic Union. You should pay attention to the asbestos-free label on the packaging of talc—containing products, and apply loose products with a wet sponge or brush, avoiding the formation of a cloud of powder, explains Andrey Dorokhov.
The pharmaceutical grade label also indicates the pharmaceutical purity of cosmetic products. Such funds meet strict standards.
— Avoid cheap no name powders without documents about the origin of the raw materials, — says the cosmetologist. — It is more reliable to choose brands that publicly disclose the origin of their ingredients.
Yana Shatskaya warns that frequent use of even the best powder can lead to dehydration of the skin, clogged pores, and disruption of the natural hydrolipidic balance. The skin does look matte, but in the long run it is fraught with inflammation and premature aging.
— As an alternative, you can choose light mineral veils and transparent fixing powders (in a minimal amount), — comments Shchatskaya. — Pay attention to BB and CC creams with mineral filters or moisturizing mist sprays to keep the skin fresh. Apply care with acids and retinol to naturally smooth the skin texture. Photo rejuvenation, biorevitalization, chemical peels, etc. will help you look fresh and young.
Even if mineral cosmetics are purchased from a bona fide manufacturer and their quality is beyond doubt, it is not suitable for everyone. According to Yana Shatskaya, it is better to refrain from such products for people with very dry skin, prone to pronounced peeling. It is not worth spending money on this type of cosmetics if there are open skin lesions and inflammations in the active phase, as well as for allergy sufferers if the product does not have safety certificates.
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