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No product causes as much discussion as mushrooms. Experts argue whether the benefits of the delicacy outweigh the possible harm. Mushrooms contain spermidine, a unique substance capable of activating autophagy, or "self—purification" of cells. This process helps the body get rid of damaged components, slowing down aging and maintaining cellular health. But in the case of cancer, spermidine can turn into an accomplice of the disease. How to neutralize potential harm and why "forest meat" cannot provide the body with the right amount of protein — in the Izvestia material.

Rating of the best mushrooms

It is difficult to make a single rating of the best mushrooms, since everything depends on the conditions of their growth (substrate), says Candidate of Technical Sciences, Deputy director of the Institute "Higher School of Hospitality Management" of the Russian Biotechnological University (Rosbiotech) in an interview with Izvestia Dmitry Bystrov. Nevertheless, the scientist identifies groups that are leading in terms of nutraceutical value, that is, in terms of the concentration of specific compounds.

1. Crested hedgehog (Hericium erinaceus). The leader in the content of erinacins and gerycenones, which stimulate the growth factor of neurons.

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The crested hedgehog

Photo: Global Look Press/FLPA/Dave Pressland

2. Reishi (Ganoderma lucidum). High content of triterpenes and polysaccharides (beta-glucans), which affect the immune response.

3. Oyster mushrooms (Pleurotus ostreatus). They contain lovastatin (a natural cholesterol regulator) and ergothioneine (a powerful antioxidant).

4. White mushroom (Boletus edulis). The standard for the content of high-quality vegetable protein and essential amino acids.

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Photo: IZVESTIA/Vasily Japaridze

Olga Tatarnikova, a gastroenterologist and nutritionist at the Be Healthy clinic in Khodynka, agrees that there can be no rating of the best mushrooms — it all depends on what purposes the product is chosen for.

One mushroom may be the leader in protein content, another in antioxidant properties, and the third is considered the easiest to digest. Each species has its own strengths," explains the Izvestia interlocutor.

However, in her opinion, cultivated mushrooms, such as champignons, can be called the most digestible. This product can be consumed almost daily, even for people with digestive disorders. The undoubted advantage of champignons is that they do not accumulate toxins from the soil.

— I think that among wild mushrooms, white is still the undisputed leader in terms of taste and beneficial properties. If this mushroom is dried, the protein from it will be absorbed by more than 80%," explains the doctor. — Forest honey mushrooms are also the leaders in protein content, as well as rich in zinc and iron. Chanterelles also have anthelmintic properties. The crested hedgehog is rare in nature and also cultivated. It perfectly supports the nervous system, stimulates memory and cognitive functions.

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Photo: IZVESTIA/Sergey Vinogradov

Dmitry Bystrov calls the unique taste of mushrooms a complex synergy of aromatic compounds (terpenes, aldehydes) and taste buds. Its peculiarity is explained by the high content of L-glutamic acid (a natural flavor enhancer "umami") and specific volatile compounds. For example, the characteristic smell of chanterelles is due to the presence of 1-octen-3-ol (this compound is even called mushroom alcohol).

In the ranking of organoleptic (taste) value, the white mushroom with a high concentration of aromatic esters, chanterelles, which are characterized by a specific smell with notes of apricot and cumin, and champignons are the classic umami (the fifth basic taste along with sweet, salty, sour and bitter)," the expert lists.

Is it possible to replace meat with mushrooms

Mushrooms are called forest meat, but they cannot replace animal products. Vegetable protein is indeed contained in this delicacy (in addition to vitamins and minerals), but it is absorbed worse than that which is rich in meat, poultry and eggs, emphasizes Olga Tatarnikova.

100 grams of mushrooms contain from two to five to six grams of protein. However, the cell wall of fungi contains a large amount of chitin. In addition, they are also rich in fiber, a fungin. Chitin and fiber hide protein in themselves, which is why the bioavailability of mushrooms is extremely low. Therefore, they are considered quite heavy food," explains the gastroenterologist.

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Photo: IZVESTIA/Anna Selina

According to her, cultivated types of mushrooms, such as oyster mushrooms and champignons, contain less chitin compared to forest mushrooms, so they are absorbed a little better.

"But if wild mushrooms have been dried or crushed (for mashed potatoes or mushroom sauce), then they have a better chance of assimilation than fried or raw," the Izvestia interlocutor continues.

In order to facilitate the digestion of mushrooms, the specialist advises adding products to them that make the treat more accessible to the stomach.

— Use vegetable oils (olive, sunflower or butter). Fats stimulate the production of bile and pancreatic enzymes that aid digestion. Acids from lemon juice, vinegar, sour cream, tomatoes partially soften chitin and fiber, making their structure more porous. Therefore, mushrooms stewed in sour cream or with tomato paste are not only delicious, but also physiological," the doctor points out.

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Photo: IZVESTIA/Polina Violet

She also recommends relying on onions and garlic because they contain enzymes and essential oils that "trigger" digestion even before food enters the stomach. In addition, onions enhance the mushroom flavor. And potatoes and legumes, which contain a lot of fiber and carbohydrates, on the contrary, greatly slow down and worsen digestion.

— To avoid heaviness in the stomach, mushrooms should be combined with products that stimulate the secretion of enzymes, such as fermented dairy products and light vegetables, — adds Dmitry Bystrov. — Avoid combining mushrooms with heavy red meat and fatty sauces at the same time. This creates an excessive load on the pancreas and gallbladder. It is also not recommended to combine mushrooms with alcohol (even in moderation), as this combination dramatically increases the toxic load on the liver.

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Photo: IZVESTIA/Andrey Erstrem

In addition, the scientist urges to take into account the density of the cell wall. In his opinion, porcini mushrooms, buttermilk, horseradish, mosses and oyster mushrooms are suitable for soups, broths and whole roasts, as they preserve the structure and give flavor to the dish.

Chanterelles are better fried and added to sauces due to their dense texture. Mushrooms and redheads can be salted and pickled due to their high acidity and density. Due to its neutral taste, only champignons are suitable for salads, pastries and juliennes," the expert suggests.

The Elixir of Youth

Mushrooms contain polyamines, small molecules that are present in all living cells and are essential for their growth and division. They are studied in the context of longevity issues. Polyamines such as spermidine, putrescine and spermine are most often found in edible and medicinal mushrooms. Their effects are twofold, but there are still potential benefits, Olga Tatarnikova emphasizes. According to research, polyamines from mushrooms can have neuroprotective and antioxidant effects: they protect cells (including the nervous system). from damage.

— These substances are characterized by such a property as stimulation of autophagy, the "self—purification" of cells from damaged components. In healthy cells and tissues, this is associated with slowing down the aging process. Polyamines are also considered anti—inflammatory molecules, which may be associated with an increase in healthy life expectancy, the doctor points out.

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Photo: IZVESTIA/Anna Selina

The main interest is spermidine, which activates the mechanism of "self-purification" of cells, when the body processes damaged cellular components, confirms Dmitry Bystrov. This slows down cellular aging. The concentration of spermidine varies, but mushrooms (especially oyster mushrooms and shiitake mushrooms) are a stable source of it. If we talk about other products, this substance is found in large quantities in aged cheeses, soybeans (natto), wheat germ, fermented vegetables, cruciferous and grapes.

Nevertheless, the effect of exposure to polyamines can be potentially risky, especially in the presence of tumors and neoplasms in the body, the growth of which these substances can support, warns Olga Tatarnikova. For this reason, the use of dietary supplements with polyamines (in particular, the same spermidine) for rejuvenation may be unsafe for people who already have or may develop latent malignant processes.

"Since an excess of certain polyamines in the diet can be associated with the risks of certain oncological processes, they should be considered as superfoods within the framework of a balanced diet, and not as an additive,— Dmitry Bystrov agrees with the doctor. — And the statement that polyamines are a direct "longevity elixir" still needs to be clarified.

How to store mushrooms

Mushrooms should be harvested in such a way as to preserve their best qualities as much as possible. From the point of view of biochemistry, it is the processing process that determines what remains in the plate: benefit or ballast, Dmitry Bystrov emphasizes.

— The best method is drying. At low temperatures, enzymes and vitamins of group B are preserved. The concentration of aromatic compounds and polysaccharides increases. Overheating turns mushrooms into "rubber" and destroys thermolabile vitamins, — says the interlocutor of the editorial board.

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Photo: IZVESTIA/Eduard Kornienko

Freezing, he says, is effective for preserving texture, but requires preliminary heat treatment (blanching) to inactivate enzymes that cause darkening and loss of taste.

"Pickling and salting are useful for creating a probiotic environment (during fermentation), but an excess of salt and vinegar negates the benefits of mushrooms for the cardiovascular system," the scientist warns.

To maximize the preservation of useful properties, the expert advises using slow drying at a moderate temperature. This is the best way not to lose both structure and micronutrients — vitamins and minerals.

Переведено сервисом «Яндекс Переводчик»

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