Ladies' table: what is the difference between a feminine approach to haute cuisine
On the eve of International Women's Day, Izvestia decided to ask the female chefs what dishes and products they associate with this holiday and how they themselves prefer to reflect the arrival of spring in the menu. At the same time, we asked if there is a difference in approaches to high gastronomy between women and men.
On a wave of memories
The role of female chefs in Russian restaurant gastronomy has become more and more noticeable over the years: the names of many of them are already well known to Russian gourmets. Among those whose culinary achievements are recognized by professionals is Arina Zhuravleva, the brand chef of the restaurant at the Urban Winery (Moscow), who won at the end of last year in the new nomination "Female Chef of the Year" according to the version of the Wheretoeat Moscow 2025 restaurant award.
"March 8 has been a day of beautiful women for me since childhood,— brand chef Zhuravleva told Izvestia. — Grandpa always gave us flowers, and Grandma and aunt cooked Napoleon, the one with buttercream and condensed milk. Since then, it has been my favorite dessert, reminiscent of the holiday.
Salty Napoleon
Napoleon is also on the menu of the Urban Winery restaurant, but our interlocutor rethought it and came up with her own variation with a small amount of dough and an abundance of cream. The puff pastry in it is disassembled into flakes and soaked in custard with vanilla and condensed milk. There is another important detail of the dessert — salt, which makes it brighter and more expressive, so it is called "Salty Napoleon" on the menu.
As for the peculiarities of male and female chefs' approaches to gastronomy, our expert sees no difference depending on gender - all the differences, in her opinion, are dictated rather by the chosen culinary styles.
Light movement
In St. Petersburg, the kitchen of the Tea Lounge restaurant at the Four Seasons Lion Palace St. Petersburg has been headed by chef Marina Pugina for several years. Her professional handwriting is characterized by a close connection with the gastronomic history of the Northern Capital.
Berries and desserts
— For me, March 8 is associated with something light, and I immediately think of textures that melt in my mouth and tastes that do not leave heaviness, - says Chef Pugina. — This is a celebration of grace, so the food on this day becomes a compliment to every woman.
All these associations are embodied in the brunch menu, which will be offered to the guests of the Tea Lounge on the holiday. Among the items are a poached egg with potato mousse and black sturgeon caviar, tender halibut and a shrimp appetizer, which is high in protein and low in calories. And the fresh lettuce leaves remind you of the beginning of spring, when everything blooms and turns green.
Red shrimp
The only difference inherent in female chefs, our interlocutor considers their desire to anticipate the expectations of the guest, to anticipate the impressions that the dish will leave in the soul, and not just on the tongue. In her opinion, this is even stronger in women than the desire for self-expression.
A bright flash
Women play a particularly significant role in the development of confectionery skills in Russia. Thanks to them, sweet menus in restaurants have been enriched with many interesting and unusual desserts.
Bento cake "Varvara's favorite flower"
—For me, March 8 is about brightness not only in taste, but also in visual design," admits Elena Tropina, brand pastry chef at Tunguska, Sadko restaurants and Varvara+Jerome bakery in Krasnoyarsk. — When winter gives way to spring, everything starts to come alive and blossom, you want more color and colors in everything, including desserts.
Based on this idea, our interlocutor created a festive update in the Varvara+Jerome project, adding even more spring mood to the taste palette of berries and fruits with floral decor. Bright buds appeared on the Rose Monet cake made from yogurt souffle with mango and passion fruit, on the pistachio-strawberry Madame Rosary cake, and the Varvara's Favorite Flower bento cake with chocolate biscuits and raspberries is decorated with a natural flower.
Dessert "Rose Monet"
The differences between professionals in any field are definitely not based on whether you are a woman or a man, our expert believes. The differences are in character, approach to work, and talent, not gender.
Subtle character
Despite the differences in the pastry chefs' approaches, spring desserts, as a rule, necessarily include berries, creamy textures and are complemented by floral notes.
Elderberry sorbet with lemon
"My associations with March 8 are made up of what I want to please myself with on this day," explains Polina Zubakha, pastry chef at 0.75 Please Moscow. — It's like I'm putting my feminine self into every component of the dessert. The tenderness of the cream is like our lightness. Berries and the brightness of taste, as well as personality and character, because each has its own zest. And aromatics are like perfumes that we choose to suit our mood before leaving the house.
Our interlocutor likes to cook delicate textured desserts, which you can dip into with a spoon, like into a lush soft cloud. These can be mousse cakes, panna cotta, creme brulee, ganache, as well as ice cream or sorbets filled with interesting flavors. Speaking about specific items that best convey the mood of a women's holiday, she mentioned ganache on white chocolate with tarragon, salted soaked cherries and yogurt mousse with dill, elderberry sorbet with lemon and ice cream made from fresh currant leaves, sour cream and strawberries. All these desserts were launched at 0.75 Please Moscow last summer.
Ice cream made from fresh currant leaves, sour cream and strawberries
In the confectionery business, it is important to have skills such as precision, creativity, patience, attention to detail, and accuracy, our expert continues. They can be owned by both women and men, so gender is not a determining factor or distinguishing feature. It is important to be passionate about your work, improve, and not be afraid to experiment in order to create your own unique style and delight guests with high-quality desserts.
Air Lock
The fashion for spring desserts is constantly changing, while representatives of different generations often gravitate towards those sweets that were relevant during their childhood. Sometimes sweet dishes from the past get a new interpretation in accordance with new trends in confectionery.
— I associate March 8 with something airy, I already want some lightness, because we are already looking forward to summer, - Tatiana Kostitsyna, brand pastry chef of the Moscow restaurants #SibirSibir, [KU:] Ramen, Krombacher Beer Kitchen, told our publication. — These are various variations of pavlova with berry or fruit. Or an airy berry mousse with pieces of juicy berries or fruits.
The menu of the capital's #SibirSibir project now includes a rum woman soaked in chamomile and white rum, which is very suitable for the mood of a women's holiday. The delicate, almost airy texture of the muffin is generously moistened with chamomile syrup, complemented with ice cream sauce, as if resembling melted ice cream, and decorated with fresh blueberries.
Our interlocutor considers it stereotypical that men usually get more brutal dishes. Creative people are all equally immersed in their fantasies, coming up with new combinations, and differences can arise due to different horizons and watching, she is sure.
Переведено сервисом «Яндекс Переводчик»
