The perfumery specialist spoke about the ways to choose the right fragrance.

The choice of perfume is still surrounded by myths. Most often, the fragrance is selected "according to the image" or according to first impressions on a blotter, forgetting that the smell on paper and on the skin can differ. Nina Edelman, the founder of the ASTRONI perfume brand, a graduate of the Milan University of Fashion, and a specialist in molecular and conceptual perfumery, told Izvestia on February 12.

According to the expert, the composition interacts with body temperature, skin pH, and even emotional state, so the same fragrance sounds different to different people. Another common mistake Edelman called the evaluation of the perfume in the first minutes, because the top notes create the effect of familiarity, but do not reflect the nature of the composition. According to her, it is important to know the structure of the fragrance in order to understand it.

The specialist noticed that the perfume composition is based on the pyramid principle. The first impression is created by the most volatile top notes, which sound for 10-20 minutes. Edelman called the middle notes the heart of the fragrance, they open after 20-40 minutes. The base notes are responsible for the base and the train and remain on the skin for several hours.

Edelman recommended testing the fragrance on the skin and no more than two at a time. She also urged not to rub the application site, as friction destroys the molecular structure and distorts the sound. The best thing, she says, is to apply a fragrance and live with it for a few hours. In turn, molecular compositions deserve special attention — one of the key areas of the modern industry.

"Modern perfumery is increasingly using molecular compositions — they open up differently and sound more stable. Such formulas do not overlap the personality, but adapt to it, creating an individual sound," emphasized Edelman.

The specialist noted that the molecular approach makes it possible to create cleaner, more transparent and unisex fragrances that are not strictly divided into "male" and "female", but focus on character and inner state.

As for choosing a fragrance for yourself, Edelman recommended evaluating a perfume not by fashion or a list of notes, but by task and condition. For example, drier, woody or mineral accents are suitable for concentration and work meetings, while light musky and transparent compositions are suitable for restoration. At the same time, during periods of activity and publicity, according to the expert, more structured and saturated formulas sound organically.

"In my practice when creating fragrances for different archetypes, I noticed that the most important thing for a person is not to match the trend, but to match the inner feeling of oneself. That is why today the unisex approach and concepts of archetypes or elements are increasingly being used - they help to more accurately reflect an individual rather than a social role," added Edelman.

She concluded that the conscious choice of a fragrance lies in understanding its structure, opening time and its own condition. The specialist emphasized that a well-chosen composition does not argue with a personality and does not require external confirmation, but becomes its continuation.

Ekaterina Safonova, a therapist at the CMD clinic, warned on January 11 about the risks of applying perfume to bare skin. The specialist emphasized that under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, both natural and synthetic components of perfumes can become photosensitizers and affect the risk of DNA damage and skin cancer. To minimize the risks, she recommended applying perfume to clothes or using sunscreen on exposed skin areas.

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