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- Winter tales: what the new gastro packages in the capital's restaurants tell us about
Winter tales: what the new gastro packages in the capital's restaurants tell us about
In winter, life usually freezes, nature sleeps and accumulates strength in anticipation of spring. But the restaurant industry has its own rhythms and important updates are happening now almost more often than in other seasons. That's because in the midst of cold weather and snow, the need for new experiences and vibrant tastes is especially strong. The chefs know this very well and delight the guests not only with new items in the main menu, but also with full-fledged sets. Details can be found in the Izvestia article.
Fate is a tangle
Nicanor Vieira, Chef of the Olluco Restaurant, delivered the traditional annual premiere. In the new set called "Plexus", he follows the already familiar logic — he chooses specific points on the map of Russia and Peru and creates dishes based on products typical of those places, but in such a way as to convey the appropriate impressions — visual and gustatory. At the same time, Nicanor never forgets about his Peruvian roots, so he is always looking for some bizarre exotic for every "Russian" presentation. Moreover, he makes an impeccably accurate choice.
Volcanic islands
Thus, scallop, sea bream, vongole and algae, as well as succulents, aloe and pollar, are responsible for the "Volcanic Islands" (Kuriles). The Barents Sea is made from squid and sea urchin, but flavored with Kaffir lime. The "high steppe" of Tuva is embodied by duck, goat cheese and buckwheat, as well as leek and two types of bread (chickpeas and Argentine cremona), which are served with honey butter. And in the "Taiga Forest", in addition to venison and mushrooms, there is a piece of foie gras — for the fullness of sensations.
The Barents Sea
In the "Peruvian" part, everything is more consistent, but it is not any easier. So, the famous "Red Coast" is represented by two types of shrimp (carabinero and botan ebi), avocado, egg and rocato pepper. Beef rib with turmeric, coconut and root vegetables awaits guests at the Edge of the Jungle. The "Sacred Valley" welcomes feijoa, guacatai, and cashews, while the "Rainforest" welcomes corn, lucuma, and chuncho cocoa. And only in the "Freshwater of the Andes", instead of the originally conceived lamb with corn and tamarind, trout with eel and crayfish appeared at the last moment.
Taiga forest
Nikanor pays no less attention to the visual component. The serving has been thought out in detail for each serving, pictures have been selected, and even dishes have been specially made — they organically complement the overall presentation of a particular "place" with their shape and texture. However, these are all characteristic elements of Olluco's corporate identity.
The Sacred Valley
Wine and non-alcoholic accompaniment is offered for the set. Moreover, the second in terms of taste harmony, phenomenally accurate selection of ingredients and virtuosity of performance is in no way inferior to food.
Pure pleasure
The chef of the Grand Cru restaurant, David Emmerle, celebrated the new year 2026 with a new set called "Hedonist". No storytelling, just food that speaks for itself confidently. There are only five pitches, but each one is calibrated to the smallest detail, perfectly balanced and masterfully executed.
Scallop and tartare with pike roe
It all starts with a cold appetizer of scallop and pike roe tartare, covered with the thinnest slice of daikon and seasoned with sour cream with yuzu and shiso butter. This is followed by kohlrabi ravioli with confit fennel duxel, parsnip puree and candied beetroot. As you know, vegetables are a long—standing passion of Emmerle's, and few people in Moscow work with this delicate product so exquisitely.
Tender squid with sea urchin
The third serving is spaghetti with berblanc sauce, another gastrovisual trick that the chef loves so much. As in the previous dish, there is also not a pinch of flour. Pasta (by the way, aldente in consistency) is made from squid, and seasoned with sea urchin caviar, mashed sweet potatoes and yuzu. In addition, shiso tempura has been added to play the textures correctly.
Grilled venison fillet
Grilled venison fillet with kohlrabi and butternut squash milfeu and red wine sauce is a bright and confident highlight of the set. Rich in a variety of flavors, the dish is complemented by an elegant confit cutlet made from a lamb shoulder, which is served on a thin brioche.
Ganache with genmaycha tea with almond crumble, caramel
The hedonistic meal is rounded off by a complex but not overloaded dessert based on ganache with almond crumble, caramel sauce and ricotta ice cream with salted rice chips. The set will be in effect at least until the beginning of spring.
His name is white
Another purely seasonal set called "White Winter" was launched at the Bjorn restaurant. All six serves, each in its own way, play out the white motif and reveal one or another element of winter.
Bjorn seth White Winter
The first course, an appetizer of salted pears, wood mushroom, crumble of pine nuts, crispy yagel and fried leek, recalls the restrained beauty of winter nature. The second, in the form of fillets of lightly salted halibut, caviar, soaked apple and tomato "snow", reports timid, still uncertain ice floes on the ground gripped by the first frost.
Ice mushroom, Walnut
In the third serving, pearl barley and slices of jerusalem artichoke stewed in milk are tightly covered with celery and baked garlic mousse, as if the field is securely wrapped in snow. This dish is rich, thick and dense, maybe the best in the set, even without regard to the visual component.
Barley, Garlic
It is replaced first by Murmansk cod with baked potatoes and fermented turnips, as well as the most tender rabbit fillet with mashed parsnips and a sauce based on fir shoots. Both feeds symbolize the various lifestyle changes that inevitably occur in winter.
Cod, Turnips, Potatoes
The set ends with a dessert of stewed pears with spices, pears marinated in spicy syrup, pear cream, sage and caramel. Its warm, cozy, sweet-spicy and slightly smoky taste seems to remind you of long winter evenings, logs crackling in the fireplace and a mug of fragrant mulled wine in your palms.
Pear, sage, caramel
The winter theme of the set is also reflected in the setting — blankets on the backs of chairs, white tablecloths, deliberately rough dishes and a living candle in a cube of real ice.
The roads we choose
The chef of the Beluga restaurant, Roman Chistov, presented the first tasting set after almost a year of work at a new location. Ten innings tell the story of his native Kostroma Region in one way or another. Therefore, there was a place for regional specialists, traditional recipes, landmark events, and legendary countrymen in the detailed gastropub.
The Susanin Trail
Among the ingredients are Volga sturgeon and crayfish, Kologriv goose, Kostroma cheeses, moose milk from a local farm, grapes, lingonberries, wild wild cherry, morels and even dandelions from Kostroma forests and marshes, the same ones where Ivan Susanin performed his feat.
Kostroma gold
All this is combined in the most bizarre way, but it builds into a harmonious and harmonious whole. Crayfish necks are appropriately complemented with light mead, sturgeon with salted mushroom tartare, goose with soaked gooseberries and dandelion capers, varenets with salted jerusalem artichoke chips, and morels with bitter chocolate mousse.
The Kologriv goose
Each pitch has its own concept. For example, the "Glacier" of smoked fish, soaked apples, sour cream and horseradish recalls the traditional methods of preserving and storing food in deep earthen pits, where the ice did not melt until the following winter. Kostroma gold with slices of young cheese and creamy dressing reveals the essence of the old saying about "rolling like cheese in butter." And the "Susanin Trail", consisting of four mini-desserts, is built in a sequential change of flavors.
Glacier
Among the most intricate positions, we note the dry fish soup in the form of fish and pike roe. They are served separately with jurma, a thick and spicy rooster broth, complemented with fish broth and a dash of butter. Another original dish is a rare rag for the Kostroma capital, in fact, a pie with venison, spelt, tops and cherries.
Volzhskaya putina
The set is complemented by two unannounced serves in the form of freshly baked bread with whipped butter and black caviar and nettle sorbet with applesauce.
Переведено сервисом «Яндекс Переводчик»
