Like cheese in dough: what unusual khachapuri is prepared in restaurants
One of the first associations that comes to mind when mentioning Georgian cuisine is, of course, khachapuri. It is absolutely impossible to imagine a lavish Caucasian feast without Adjarian-style boats, round pies in Megrelian or Imeretian style. However, the list of khachapuri is not limited only to the listed options. In addition, this simple dish is perfect for interesting gastronomic experiments. Izvestia dealt with rare traditional and new unusual Georgian pies with cheese and dough, which can be tasted in different restaurants of the country today.
Rarely, but accurately
The beauty of khachapuri lies in the simplicity and clarity of the ingredients used in its recipe. The dough and cheese create the perfect balance of taste, which is very close to many of our compatriots. At the same time, there are still khachapuri options in the depths of Georgian cuisine, which are still rarely found on the menus of Russian restaurants.
"The dish that really deserves more attention is achma," Mamiya Jojua, the brand chef of the Kazbek restaurant (Moscow), told Izvestia. — This type of khachapuri is more popular in Western Georgia, where they like to eat it for breakfast along with matsoni, a fermented milk drink that perfectly balances the richness of the pie.
Achma with suluguni and Imeretian cheese with matsoni
According to our interlocutor, one of the main reasons why acma has not yet been widely used is due to its complex structure. To get this dish, you first need to make egg dough, boil the leaves, assemble them in layers with cheese and then bake. In addition, achma is traditionally prepared in a large layer. When it cools down and is reheated, the very effect of a freshly baked pie, which is so appreciated, is lost, so it is often quite difficult to recreate the correct taste of acme in a restaurant setting.
Another type of khachapuri popular in Georgia, but rare in Russia, is the Gurian pie gvezeli. It is a traditional pastry that is prepared in the oven from yeast dough with a special filling of Imereti cheese and boiled eggs, which gives the dish a special richness and taste.
— Khachapuri in Gurian also differs from other types in the shape of a crescent, - said Maka Zakaraya, chef of the Elarji restaurant (Moscow). — Traditionally, this pie is baked on Orthodox Christmas as a symbol of the heavenly bodies, and sometimes a coin or a bean is put inside for good luck. In our restaurant, we cook it in a round shape, with boiled egg, chicken meat and cheese.
Round-shaped Gurian khachapuri
According to David Chelidze, the brand chef of Hedonist restaurant (Moscow), khachapuri penovani, which is made from puff pastry in the shape of a square, has great potential. In spirit, this dish is close to European pastries, and it can be served as a puff pastry not only with cheese, but also with various other interesting fillings, including sweet ones.
— The foam requires a very careful approach to the dough (lamination and proper distribution of the filling), which makes the cooking process difficult and time-consuming. This is due to its lower prevalence in restaurants," adds our expert. — Unfortunately, foam is most often found in grassroots fast food, where it is made from cheap purchased dough, so that in the end the taste, texture and the very idea of the dish are lost.
Nikolay Maslyakov, the brand chef of the project, told our publication that his version of the foam is being prepared in the Yaroslavl Mamuka restaurant. In addition to the main ingredient, suluguni cheese, garlic and herbs are added to the filling for flavor and brightness of taste. The dish appeared on the menu as an experimental dish, but the guests immediately appreciated it, and it has been steadily popular for several years now.
Flight of fancy
Modern gastronomy lives in a balance between tradition and modernization, and from this point of view khachapuri is ideal for experimentation.
— The very design of the cheese dough dish suggests that you can add completely different fillings to it that work well with the main ingredients, starting from conditional pear and gorgonzola, wild mushroom julienne, spinach with caviar, Tambov ham with parmesan and ending with fresh figs and strachatella, — says the brand chef of Georgian houses "Dze" and "Dzemi" (Krasnoyarsk) Mikhail Mikhailov. — At the same time, for flat khachapuri, we use a softer and creamier pastry, and for Adjara — unleavened, so that the crust is crisper and holds its shape better.
Khachapuri with strachatella and condari tomatoes
In our interlocutor's projects, strachatella with tomatoes and condari spices or wild mushrooms fried to a caramel crust, stewed in cream and broth are added to Adjarian boats, and Georgian cheese with lamb and mint or ham and mushrooms is added to penovani.
"There are more than 50 types of baked goods with fillings in Georgia, which proves that people have experimented before, rather than reinventing the wheel just now," brand chef Jojua continues the theme of creative freedom in working with traditional dishes. — It's the same with Adjarian khachapuri. Every housewife in Georgia has her own signature recipe: someone makes a special dough, someone adds ham, tomatoes or tarragon to the filling, and I added truffle.
Adjaruli with black truffle
According to brand chef Chelidze, Adjarian khachapuri is best suited for experiments. The boat itself works like an edible plate with cheese sauce in the center, and the final toppings can be beautifully placed on the sides. For example, the Hedonist restaurant serves puff pastry adjaruli with poached egg and hollandaise sauce for breakfast — an excellent substitute for the usual croissants and eggs benedict. In this case, the sauce acts as a bridge to French cuisine, a creamy emulsion that binds cheese, dough and egg. Another interesting experimental dish is khachapuri in Adjarian fondue. The edges of the boat can be broken off and dipped into the cheese base, enjoying both the taste and the process.
— There are items on our menu that mix the culinary traditions of Asia and the Caucasus, — said the brand chef of the Supra restaurant (Vladivostok) Victor Ponomarev. — One of the most striking examples is khachapuri with shrimp and scallop in tom yam sauce based on coconut milk. We also use special Japanese flour to make them.
A note to culinary experts
Our experts have shared some recommendations on how to make homemade khachapuri more gastronomic.
"Unsalted Imeretian cheese is always used as a base in Georgia,— said brand chef Jojua. — Suluguni is not very popular for stuffing, as it stretches a lot and cools down quickly. In Russia, on the contrary, suluguni stuffing is often preferred, so it is very important to find a balance that will appeal to you.
Our interlocutor also advised paying special attention to the moisture balance in the filling. If the cheese is too wet, add a little flour to it. If, on the contrary, it is too dry, you can dilute it with milk or even water.
— For the dough, choose only high—quality flour with a good protein content, - says brand chef Chelidze. — Give the dough time for cold fermentation, then its taste will become deeper, sourness and lightness will appear. I keep it in the fridge for 24 hours, but it's enough to leave it overnight.
Adjaruli with pumpkin and dorblu cheese
The cheese base should remain classic (Imereti and suluguni), but to enhance the gastronomic level, you can add a little sheep's cheese (this will give depth to the taste) or slightly smoked cheese for a smoky note. You can also add natural flavors such as tarragon or lemon zest.
— The ratio of filling and dough should be at least 50-50, — recommends brand chef Mikhailov. — If you take 200 g of dough, then you need to use the same amount of cheese mixture. If you are preparing Megrelian khachapuri, then add about 10% more cheese on top of the molded flatbread and lubricate the surface with egg yolk and sour cream.
For Adjarian khachapuri, use unleavened dough, and for Imeretian and Megrelian— use rich dough with butter and milk, our interlocutor continues. And be sure to combine cream and young cheeses to balance the fat content of the filling.
Переведено сервисом «Яндекс Переводчик»
