The climbers called Victory Peak the hardest peak to climb.

Victory Peak is the hardest peak to climb. Oleg Afanasyev, president of the Aspiring mountaineering club, told Izvestia on August 21.

"This is from our Asia, relatively speaking, from the five seven thousand meters of our Asia, which are included in the title of "Snow Leopard", The victory has always been, remains and will remain the hardest, most difficult peak, because the weather is always bad around it," he said.

According to him, climbers climb Mount Everest every year, but for Victory Peak there are seasons when few or no one climbed to the top. Afanasyev called the height of 7 thousand meters above the ground a territory where the human body is unable to live. He noted that at this altitude, the issue of death becomes a matter of time, since the body does not have enough oxygen.

The climber clarified that a person going to climb should understand that at such heights there is practically nowhere to wait for rescue assistance in case of an accident. Afanasyev called the man himself and his training the main equipment of the climber. He also recalled the recently deceased Soviet climber Nikolai Totmanov, who became ill at the peak of Victory. The expert emphasized that he was a professional.

Climber Oleg Savchenko, in turn, confirmed Afanasyev's words about the most difficult peak. According to him, it is very difficult to predict the weather conditions, which are difficult to adapt to. He also noted the lack of sufficient time for acclimatization.

"This mountain has already taken the lives of more than 70 people. Well, basically, we can say that every 10th climber who was supposed to be at the top died," he clarified.

In addition, the expert pointed out the current difficult conditions in which Russian climber Natalia Nagovitsina is currently at Victory Peak. According to him, if we are lucky and there is no wind, there is a small chance that she will be able to survive. He wondered if the rescue climbers would be able to take her off such a difficult route.

"I tried to climb this mountain myself, but unfortunately, the weather conditions did not allow such an opportunity. And it's better to refuse. The most difficult, the hardest thing for a climber is to give up," the expert added.

Savchenko clarified that, as a rule, climbers die on the way back because they did not calculate their strength, or they did not have enough body reserves against the background of high pressure, cold, radiation and heavy loads. He noted that every ninth climber out of 10 usually dies on Victory.

In addition, he stressed that, basically, professionals rise to the peak of Victory. According to him, people who have conquered several six thousand meters will not need a lot of time, but difficulties will arise if this is the first peak in six months.

Earlier in the day, the head of the press service of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Kyrgyzstan, Adil Chargynov, said that reports of Nagovitsina's death were unsubstantiated assumptions. The official representative of the Russian Foreign Ministry, Maria Zakharova, also said that the ministry had established close contact with the embassy in Bishkek to rescue the climber.

The fact that 47-year-old Nagovitsina was stuck at Victory Peak was reported on August 19 in the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Kyrgyzstan. She broke her leg during the descent and has been at altitude for a week. It was noted that the woman's partner gave her first aid and went for help. On the same day, a four-person rescue team was sent to her. Almaz Sarbanov, a representative of the Kyrgyz Ministry of Defense, said it would take them three days to reach it.

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