
Come on Lama: did the "apartment" issue spoil the Tibetans

On the eve of his 90th birthday, the Dalai Lama XIV announced plans to be reborn, and not necessarily into a man, and called for looking for a next one outside of China - this could lead to increased tensions with China, which includes Tibet. In Beijing, they consider it their exclusive right to approve a spiritual heir. Meanwhile, among ordinary Tibetans, the issue of succession and national identity is not so acute. As part of the PRC, their standard of living has significantly increased. They can earn money and study at the best universities in the country, while preserving their cultural heritage. How real Tibetans live in China now — in the Izvestia report.
How do Tibetans live in China
In one hand — a suitcase, in the other — a passport and a phone. This is what a typical tourist looks like upon arrival somewhere. However, when you exit Lingzhi Airport in China, you get another item — an oxygen tank. The fact is that it is located in the city of Nyingchi in the Tibetan Autonomous Region. The altitude above sea level here already starts from 3 thousand meters, and it immediately catches the eye: all the mountains are densely shrouded in clouds. It feels like time has slowed down here. By the way, the tourist guide recommends eating slowly, walking and even talking, so that such a height does not affect well-being.
Despite the fact that Nyingchi was greeted by very gloomy and gray weather, which, however, only added mystery and color, it is almost impossible to stand on the street without glasses. It's immediately clear: You're closer to the sun. The lack of color was more than compensated for by the bright decorations right on the mountains, and they contrast with each other as much as possible. First, you pass the peaks, framed by giant ribbons and flags in the traditional colors of Tibetan Buddhism — yellow, green, red, white and blue. In general, almost everything in Tibet is decorated in this way. And then huge Chinese characters appear right on the mountains, literally meaning the following: "Strictly follow the instructions of the party and unswervingly follow its leadership" or "Long live the Motherland". Which homeland or whose homeland is in question is the most difficult question for Tibet.
In 2021, China celebrated the 70th anniversary of reunification with Tibet, calling it a major victory for the liberation of the Chinese people and the reunification of the country. As a result, Tibet became part of the People's Republic of China with the status of autonomy. Since China has always demonstrated a desire for the prosperity of its people, something had to be done with thousands of Tibetans who, in fact, were not familiar with banal social benefits. As a result, large-scale anti-poverty programs have been launched, although the result is quite modest in the context of Tibetans.
One of these programs lasted from 2013 to 2016: 255 people, or about 40 families, moved to modern settlements. For example, 43-year-old Baimadanzeng moved with his wife and two children. Living in the forest, he literally foraged for food, and hiking, for example, for new clothes, took about five days. Now the simplest, at first glance, services like transportation and medicine are available to him. It was especially important to provide children with education, he said. Baimadanzeng works at a construction site, receiving about 60 thousand yuan per year (about 659 thousand rubles) along with the subsidies provided to the transferred Tibetans. This is even slightly more than the average income in this village.
At the same time, the Chinese authorities are trying to demonstrate that they carefully preserve and enhance the heritage of ancient Tibet. To some extent, this is true. In some schools, in addition to the basic subjects, young Tibetans also study subjects familiar to their culture: Tibetan calligraphy or playing traditional musical instruments. By the way, in the cities of the Tibet Autonomous Region, almost all signage and signs are duplicated. Considering the external quirkiness of Chinese characters and the Tibetan alphabet, sometimes you get the feeling that you are in some very strange corner of the world. The local flavor is given by a parasitic mushroom sold absolutely everywhere, which grows in caterpillars and only in the Himalayas at an altitude of more than 3.5 thousand m. It looks extremely unappetizing, but over the past 500 years cordyceps has earned a reputation in China as a powerful aphrodisiac.
Also, a thousand—year-old craft is actively supported in Tibet - the production of paper for sacred texts and tanks (something like an analogue to icons). It is made from a poisonous plant and is still extremely traditional. One such 10-meter roll can cost 2 thousand yuan (22 thousand rubles), but it will be stored for at least 700 years. Although the presence of the PRC is clearly felt here. Next to the tanks, Xi Jinping is depicted everywhere on the same Tibetan traditional paper. Images of other familiar political figures are also being applied at the Nyingchi paper mill: portraits of Lenin and Stalin stand in an improvised exhibition corner.
As Chinese Ambassador Zhang Hanhui recently noted, 60 years of Communist Party rule have led to the fact that "today Xizang (the Chinese name for Tibet. — Izvestia) is confidently following the bright, prosperous, stable, harmonious and wonderful path of socialism."
Who will be the next Dalai Lama?
In the last few months, the topic of Tibet has received close attention, especially from the media: the Dalai Lama promised to tell who will be his reincarnation-reincarnation. The issue was becoming more acute: Beijing insists on its exclusive right to choose a spiritual successor, and therefore the reincarnated lama should be found in the Tibetan regions of China. In 2007, China passed a law according to which all "living Buddhas" or lamas must receive Beijing's approval. The same position was voiced on July 2 by the official representative of the Chinese Foreign Ministry, Mao Ning, stressing that reincarnation must comply with "Chinese laws and regulations." And there was less and less time: after all, on July 6, the Dalai Lama XIV (Tenjing Gyamtsho, or Lhamo Dhondrub) turns 90 years old.
He did not disappoint his followers: a successor, and not necessarily a man, will be found outside of China, that is, solely through the efforts of his Gaden Phodrang Trust foundation, which is based in the Indian city of Dharamsala. There is also the so-called government of Tibet in exile, which Beijing, of course, does not recognize, and considers the spiritual leader himself a schismatic. The Dalai Lama described the disputes with the demands of the Chinese authorities as follows: "If two Dalai lamas are born: one in a free country and one chosen by China, then no one will respect him. This is a problem for the Chinese."
There are several options for the development of the situation, experts believe. Either a new spiritual leader will be chosen in some neutral country, which is theoretically allowed by the Dalai Lama himself, or there will be several of them, which will make the issue of succession even more politicized. So far, China considers the current situation as a threat to national interests, especially against the background of the unequivocal support of the Dalai Lama by the United States.
Ordinary Tibetans living in China are less sensitive to the issue of succession and do not feel threatened by their limited, but still autonomy. A girl from the nomadic northern peoples told me that for Tibetans, their current standard of living is important — they enjoy almost the most significant preferences among ethnic minorities in China.
For example, she easily got into a prestigious college in Beijing, where her best friend from Hubei Province, which is considered one of the largest transport and economic hubs in Central China, also studied.
— My grandmother never went to school. But she would really like to. That's why she always says that we were lucky to be born in this period of history. Because we can get an education," says the Tibetan.
In general, everything in Tibet seems very calm and measured. And in the official and historical capital, Lhasa— you even get the feeling that you are really somewhere in Tibet. It is also called the Sunny City. Indeed, after the overcast Nyingchi, Lhasa was greeted with warm and clear weather.
Ancient Tibetan monasteries have been preserved there. Even in the famous Potala Palace, where, although it has become a major tourist attraction, active monks still conduct spiritual practices. There are really a lot of travelers from all over the world, including from Russia, a monk from the Jokang temple told me.
— The reason why we introduced this autonomous region is that Tibetans are the majority in this region. That's why we created this autonomous region and gave it some autonomous economy and culture," the local office of the Chinese Foreign Ministry told Izvestia.
Of course, the Tibetan issue is very complex and multifaceted in terms of both autonomy and religiosity. And China is not the only player here. Territorial disputes over Ladakh and Sikkim continue with India. Small territories of the Tibetan cultural and religious community, such as Nubri, Yolmo, and Mustang, are located on the territory of modern Nepal.
At the same time, Beijing and Kathmandu do not have such sharp disagreements. The historical issue here is slightly overshadowed by modern pragmatism. China is implementing many infrastructure projects in Nepal, including highways, railways or hydroelectric power plants. Despite the fact that India is much closer to Nepal politically and historically, locals complain that their partners are mired in corruption and do nothing for Nepalis (including Tibetans), unlike the Chinese.
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