Cloudy in plastic: why homemade wine is dangerous at resorts
Roskachestvo warned about the danger of buying "homemade wines" by hand. Now such trade is becoming less common, due to the fact that a retail license is needed for the sale of wine, and a certificate of conformity from Rospotrebnadzor is required for the product itself. However, eggplant wine is still common in the southern regions of Russia. But where does the good tradition end and the threat to human health begin? Izvestia spoke with experts to understand what is actually poured into plastic bottles and how to distinguish a good product from a substitute.
"Not a grape product at all"
The summer season, as usual, is not only the sun, the sea and fruits, but also — as usual — plastic bottles with the inscription "Homemade wine", lined up in attractive rows in the bazaars of the southern regions (Kuban, Rostov region, Stavropol, Dagestan, Crimea). Despite the fact that the retail sale of alcohol without a license is prohibited, the spontaneous sale of such drinks is not a thing of the past. Experts warn that the apparent authenticity may conceal a great threat to health.
—The production of wine at home is fraught with serious risks,— explains Fatima Balikoeva, PhD in Agriculture, Associate Professor at the Department of Fermentation Technology and Winemaking at Rosbiotech University. — Without laboratory control, it is impossible to be sure that the product does not contain methanol or fusel oils. And falsification, alas, is not uncommon — technical alcohol or chemical flavors can be used.
According to her, the current legislation, namely Federal Law No. 468-FZ "On Viticulture and Winemaking", allows the production of wine for personal consumption. But selling without a license is already an administrative offense, for which a fine is due. However, in regions where grapes "come out of every crevice," as experts figuratively describe the situation, it is almost impossible to control turnover: people simply continue to "treat" while making an informal profit.
According to Roskachestvo, with the onset of the holiday season, the department receives dozens of complaints about the quality and safety of "homemade" and draft wine. "Even if a person has honestly made wine from grapes, the issue of hygiene remains open," warns Olesya Latysheva, director of the Department for Research and Promotion of Russian Wine Products at Roskachestvo. —Wine is a product of fermentation, which means it is at risk of microbiological spoilage."
Another gray area is draught alcohol stores. Fake barrels may hide "bag-in-boxes" with a product of unknown origin. "Under beautiful names like Asti on rose Petals, it may not be a grape drink at all, but something based on cider, sugar and flavorings. And the example of "Mr. Cider", in which methanol was found, is indicative," says Latysheva.
However, winemaking is not only a risk, but also an economic opportunity, especially in agricultural regions. According to Boris Titov, the owner of Abrau-Durso Group of Companies and a member of the board of the Association of Winegrowers and Winemakers of Russia, real "garage" winemaking is not a penny on the market, but an author's product with a soul and ambitions.: "Any micro-business strives for recognition. He has his own name, his own style. He won't be trading an unnamed aligote from a canister."
However, the government is already taking steps to support such micro-producers. In recent years, more than 60 licenses have been issued to farmers in the Krasnodar Territory alone, and on preferential terms. To legalize "home-grown" winemaking, there are subsidies, grants, and educational programs like the "Farmer's School." Enotourism is actively developing — farm excursions, festivals, tastings. "This is a chance to preserve a cultural tradition and at the same time raise the bar for quality," Latysheva says.
The Russian Ministry of Agriculture explained that thanks to recent changes in federal legislation, legal family farm wineries and authentic author's wines are appearing instead of the so-called garage wineries, which are becoming a symbol of tradition and hospitality in any region.
In addition, support for small-scale winemaking is also becoming a way to combat shady products. "Control, education and accessible legal ways are the three pillars on which a civilized market can be built," Balikoeva sums up.
Is it necessary to deal with home-made winemaking
Today, for some, plastic bottles in bazaars and street stalls are a symbol of local flavor, for others it is a cause of alarm. Where does tradition end and danger begin? And is it possible to turn home-made winemaking into a modern and safe industry?
Oleg Nikolaev, co-founder of the Sevastopol Wine Growers and Winemakers Association, throws up his hands: "I don't really understand homemade wine in cloudy plastic bottles as a genre. And I don't really understand those who risk themselves by buying it." He emphasizes that it is often not wine that is sold under the guise of homemade, but an unknown liquid of dubious origin. An alternative, according to him, has long existed — these are small wineries with their own vineyards, where you can see the production with your own eyes and taste a high-quality, certified product. "That's where you need to try — and have fun, not problems," the expert sums up.
Alexey Solovyov, president of the Association of Cavists of Russia and founder of the Ratingtelling research company, agrees with him. Unlike tourists, he judges by experience and numbers: "Over the years of tasting practice, I have come across dozens of samples of so-called homemade wine. And, frankly, most of them didn't just fail to meet the standards—they didn't even try. They were coarse, unstable liquids with foreign tastes and odors." According to Solovyov, such drinks may contain toxic compounds, and the lack of control makes them potentially dangerous. "The irony is that today you can buy legal, certified wine in the store cheaper and of better quality than at the resort bazaar," he adds.
Natalia Takacheva, sommelier of the Myshako winery and expert of the Popular Front, also speaks about the risks of "homework". According to her, chemical and hygienic factors pose the greatest threat: "Methanol, improper fermentation, unsanitary conditions — all this can lead to serious poisoning and even death. When choosing a wine, it is important to understand the conditions under which it was produced and by whom." Takacheva emphasizes that the market is controlled by law, but in the case of private traders, in practice, this control almost does not work.
Experts from the Kuban Institute of Management, Entrepreneurship and Marketing (KIMPIM) add that when it comes to "homework" on an industrial scale, especially with the addition of technical alcohol, dyes and preservatives, this really becomes a problem. "And this is no longer wine, it is a dangerous imitation, and it is most often sold "out of the trunk" in PET," the experts explain.
Pavel Shapkin, Chairman of the National Consumer Protection Union, focuses on the hidden threats of the packaging itself.: "Even high-quality wine bottled in plastic bottles and heated in the sun can turn into a dangerous cocktail. Phthalates and antimony are released from plastic, substances that, when exposed for a long time, are associated with serious consequences for the cardiovascular system and metabolism."
Fight or help
Gennady Oparin, Chairman of the Union of Farmers' Wineries and head of the Semigorye farm, sees the problem in the imperfection of procedures: "Yes, the state has made it possible to obtain a farm license. But in practice, this is a difficult path. There are no instructions, there are many checks, and it is difficult to obtain a document. And even with a license, you can't just pick up and sell wine on the market. Only at the production site or at specially organized fairs." He is confident that clear rules, a transparent list of documents and a simplified procedure for obtaining a license and subsequent trading are needed. Only then, in his opinion, will domestic winemakers have an incentive to come out of the shadows.
Felix Kravtsov, Chairman of the Board of the Krasnodar Krai Consumer Union, complements the picture from the perspective of territorial identity: "Home winemaking is part of the culture of the Kuban. People have been making wine for centuries, and it's not just a drink, but a way of life." He emphasizes that spontaneous trade is indeed unsafe, but excessive bans are not the solution. "It is necessary not to prohibit, but to help: through cooperatives, self-employed status, consumer cooperation. The main thing is not to push these people away, but to include them in the economy."
The Federal Service for Alcohol and Tobacco Market Control recalled that in the Russian Federation, the production of homemade alcohol (moonshine or wine) does not raise any questions, but as soon as an artisanal producer begins to sell the fruits of his labor, he leaves the legal field and becomes the object of interest of law enforcement agencies. Izvestia sent inquiries about the future of home winemaking to the administrations of Kuban, Crimea, Rostov Region, Dagestan and Stavropol, as well as to the Ministry of Industry and Trade of Russia, Rospotrebnadzor and the Ministry of Energy.
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