Taste accent: new points of attraction on the gastronomic map of Moscow
Over the past few months, several new and interesting projects of various formats have joined the vibrant gastronomic life of the Russian capital. Among the most notable are a Mediterranean restaurant, a miniature wine bistro, a pizzeria, a meat place and a gin bar. Read more about new projects in the Izvestia article.
Meat Card on Smolensky Boulevard
Today, a meat restaurant is perceived by many as a place where the main emphasis is on steaks, since the vast majority of relevant metropolitan establishments operate in this genre. However, the creators of the new project decided to present meat as diverse as possible, offering guests a choice of steaks, cutlets, their own sausages and much more. The hot dishes on the menu are distributed according to cooking methods. Pork or beef ribs and half a duck fall from a smoker onto the tables, a shoulder of lamb for company from a wood—burning stove, and steaks, lula, kebabs and burgers from an open fire.
Venison steak with celery root and berry sauce
— Another feature of our company is the use of wild meat: moose, deer, wild boar, ducks," Dmitry Zonov, chef of the Myasnaya Karta restaurant, told Izvestia. — For example, we make carpaccio from moose, and tender tenderloin from deer. There is a steak on the menu, where we combine moose, deer and wild boar meat. And soon we will add wild quails from the Tver and Smolensk regions. All this makes us different from other meat restaurants.
Venison sausage
In the interior of the "Meat Map", the map of Russia draws attention to itself, on which the regions where the restaurant's supplier farms are located are marked. Voronezh marbled beef, Dagestan mutton, Circassian lamb and game from the Moscow region are prepared in the kitchen, and various meat delicacies come from Tatarstan, Bashkortostan and the Tambov region.
Pozharsky cutlet with black pepper sauce
— Our main task is to make the food as delicious as possible, — adds our interlocutor. — And only when we have achieved the perfect taste characteristics, we begin to work on serving. But that doesn't mean it's not important to us.
Half a duck with soaked apples and pickled pepper
Strictly speaking, this applies to almost any position. Vologda butter is whipped with gorgonzola and served with roti. Pork fouette is served with red orange and pepper jam. Veal tongue is complemented with tonnato sauce with fried anchovies, and potatoes baked on coals with sour cream and red caviar.
Chicken from the oven with herbs
The main menu, of course, consists of meat dishes. However, guests will be offered shrimp stew with coriander, sea bass steamed with green pepper sauce, casarechche with shrimp, and dumplings with spicy cherries. There is also a dessert showcase at the entrance, which is impossible to pass by in every sense of the word.
El Pimpi on Bolshaya Nikitskaya
In recent years, Moscow has developed a local trend towards restaurants serving modern Spanish cuisine. Several institutions are already working in this direction, and this spring the El Pimpi project joined them (the name can be translated into Russian as "pimp"), the format of which the creators designated with the exotic concept of "empire". The restaurant's menu resembles a gastronomic guide to Iberia, but with original and slightly ironic versions of well-known national dishes, as well as specialties from different regions of the country.
Bull tails in malbec
For example, croquettes are complemented with a slice of jamon. Ramiro peppers are generously stuffed with guacamole and served with tuna tataki. Oxtails — where without them — are stewed in malbec. The giblets are baked in dough, but in such a way that the filling in the pie looks more like a thick and spicy meat stew, into which you definitely need to dip the crust carefully cut by the waiter. Paella is prepared not only with squid, but also with black chanterelles and jalapenos, and it is strongly recommended to add several slices of seasoned steak to this dish. Finally, the chocolate tart is seasoned with smoked salt and a spoonful of black caviar, so that its piquant sea note neatly sets off the bitter-spicy taste of chocolate.
Scampi Wellington
—Spanish cuisine is a unique phenomenon, and its popularity is gaining momentum all over the world today," Enver Dzhemilov, brand chef of El Pimpi restaurant, shared his opinion. — Before starting to create the menu, I traveled around the Iberian Peninsula for a month, studying various local culinary traditions. In our restaurant, we do not try to preserve authentic dishes in their original form, but build on them as a base, offering our vision and adapting to the Moscow taste.
Black paella with stuffed squid
For example, empanadas pies in a restaurant are not deep-fried, but baked. The fish dish escabeche is made from lobster and complemented with chicken skin chips. Suckling pig is soaked for a day with herbs, and then baked until golden brown and tender. At the same time, special emphasis is placed on meat positions.
Chocolate tart with smoked salt and black caviar
"It's hard to surprise the Moscow audience with a pitch, but we have tartarus, which is effectively served in a bull's head printed on a 3D printer," our interlocutor continues. — We cook the scampi shrimp in the manner of a Wellington pie, so that its head and claws peek out of the dough shell. And we made the popular dessert turron not from chilled nougat, but in the form of ice cream and serve it in front of the guest.
Fitz Gin Bar on Myasnitskaya Street
The creators of the new gastronomic bar decided to focus on gin quite naturally, because over the past five years this strong alcoholic drink has become one of the most popular all over the world. This is not surprising, because some technological subtleties allow you to achieve a very wide range of flavors in this drink.
Grilled pineapple with ice cream
—Gin doesn't have any clear and strict production regulations," Roman Morozov, the head bartender at Fitz Gin Bar, explained to our publication. — There is a common understanding that it uses alcohol, juniper, coriander and lemon zest. At the same time, each producer is free to choose any alcohol they want to work with, whether it's grain, grape, or even agave.
Beef rib with grilled tomatoes
The bar's collection includes 72 labels of gins of various styles, including classic London dry, Chinese salted plum, French pear distillate, Vietnamese sloe and many others. Guests of the establishment can try two dozen classic cocktails on any of them. At the same time, gastronomic snacks have been thought out for drinks, which are harmoniously combined with them.
Tacos with torn beef
— In a bar, in my opinion, all food should be both tactile and bright, — said Alexander Ermakov, brand chef of the Fitz Gastro Project (the bar is part of this group). — That is, the portions should be small, so that they are easier to take with your hands, but at the same time beautiful, in order to match the aesthetics of the institution.
Glazed salmon skewers with green curry
The bar's menu organically combines pineapple kimchi, beef tartare served in brioche buns in the manner of a burger, glazed salmon with coconut and spinach, beef rib with chichimuri and Thai-style risotto with green curry and chicken breast. Taco tortillas are baked from a mixture of corn and wheat flour and packed with torn beef, which is pre-stewed for 12 hours and then smoked. For dessert, gin fondue and pineapples are offered, marinated in syrup from a mixture of tamarind, ginger, chili, lime and cooked in a sous vide for several hours. Both are served with branded ice cream and salted caramel nuts.
LEO on Usacheva Street
LEO's new Mediterranean cuisine restaurant is located in Khamovniki, the most expensive and prestigious area of the capital. Such a location could not but affect his concept. The main focus of the project is on products of the highest quality, others are delivered to the kitchen directly from the plane.
Carabineros shrimp carpaccio
"We use Cantabrian anchovies from the north of Spain, they are considered the best, and the carabineros shrimp presented in the raw bar are caught in the Strait of Gibraltar,— said restaurateur Heinrich Karpin. — One of our important accents is premium olive oil from Sicily and Tuscany, which is difficult to find on the open market. And for tom yam, we selected basmati rice, having tried 12 different varieties.
Black Angus carpaccio with parmesan cheese and black truffle
The menu turned out to be voluminous and quite cosmopolitan. The emphasis is on Mediterranean cuisine, but there are many references to the gastronomic traditions of Southeast Asia and Latin America. There are ceviche and tartare, tacos and burgers, pizza and pasta. Steaks have a special place on the menu, and this is quite natural, given the fact that the restaurant's kitchen is led by brand chef Sergey Balashov (he also heads the 800 °C Contemporary Steak steakhouse), one of the main meat experts in Russia. The project uses cuts of the top grade of prime or top choice, and all meat is purchased from the best producers in our country, as well as from Australia, Japan and Uruguay.
Pizza with Cantabrian anchovies and stracciatella
— Sergey personally selects every cut that comes to the restaurant, — adds our interlocutor. — As for the greens and vegetables, the chef goes to the farms and also personally selects each product so that it is fragrant, bright and seasonal, so that the guest gets the purest taste in the end.
Spicy pear on a shortbread tartlet
In addition to steaks, Balashov has developed a number of branded items, clearly demonstrating that he is excellent at handling not only meat, but also other products. Among them are sea urchin with spicy crab, furikake and yuzu-ponzu sauce, ceviche from pagra with olive oil and sea salt, shrimp carabineros with black caviar instead of salt, baked potatoes with Greek sauce and pike caviar, mafaldini with dorado and chili, salmon with creamy caviar sauce and steak with bone marrow. For dessert, they serve chocolate tart souffle and Mediterranean ice cream with olive oil and black caviar. If there was a competition for the most memorable dish in the capital, then this intricate gastropasle would have every chance of winning.
Rabelais on Petrovsky Boulevard
The miniature restaurant with 38 seats was opened by wine enthusiasts Vlada and Maxim Lesnichenko, which certainly affected the concept of the establishment. This is a family wine project in which food acts as a meticulous accompaniment to drinks.
Cucumbers of elote with aioli and pecorino
"We were inspired by the multicultural format of the Barcelona bistro, where the tastes of cool products collected from neighboring terroirs are combined and transformed through the chef's skill and style," Vlada Lesnichenko, co—owner of Rabelais, shared the details. — We have focused on the Mediterranean tradition, where French, Italian and partly Spanish cuisines play the main role, adding Asian touches.
Pie with o-wan tails
Chef Dmitry Kishov is responsible for the cuisine of Rabelais, whose experience in the south of Spain, Bangkok and Mexico City has allowed him to give special nuances to the dishes he created. The menu for such a small place impresses with an impressive number of items. A perfect illustration of the chef's skill and imagination is beef carpaccio and layers of foie gras, complemented by prune chutney, which adds chocolate-fruit shades to the snack. Another noteworthy example is shrimp croquettes stuffed with butter and lemongrass seasoning, ginger and chili, with kochugaru pepper sauce.
Rabelaisian rabbit guts with quince puree
"Working with color plays an important role in serving dishes for us, emphasizing the natural beauty of the products in an overall balanced range," our interlocutor added. — For Dmitry, serving decoration is an integral part of the dish, while he tries not to use ingredients for the sake of decoration, but does it for the overall picture, in which there is nothing superfluous that affects the aroma and taste of the products.
Sea bass fillet with viege sauce
The project is only a couple of months old, but the guests have already got their favorites. These are, for example, salmon riyet with red caviar and tarragon cream, egg with green asparagus and parmesan sauce, pakcheri with torn duck leg confit, tomato salsa and pecorino, as well as a pie stuffed with oxtails with mushrooms, spinach and mascarpone.
Переведено сервисом «Яндекс Переводчик»
