A cosmetologist gave advice on choosing acids for facial skin care

Fruit acids have different purposes and uses depending on the type, said Natalia Tkachenko, cosmetic chemist and founder of the Roz Mary beauty brand. She told Izvestia on February 16 about what they are and how they are used.

Among such acids are citric acid (found in citrus fruits, cranberries, red currants), tartaric acid, malic acid (found in apples, cranberries, cherries) and others. They are relevant for different skin types, different ages and problems.

"Acids also have a spectrum of wide action: they exfoliate excess keratinized scales from our skin, smooth its tone, relief, as well as narrow pores, give it a healthier and more radiant look," - specified the chemist.

In addition, the cosmetologist explained that due to its exfoliating effect of acids will contribute to the fact that the components of cosmetic products that are applied to the skin in the next stage - creams, serums - will better penetrate it and have a better effect.

The expert said that glycolic acid refers to a type of water-soluble alpha-hydroxyl fruit acids. There are several ways to extract it - both synthetically and from natural components: grapes, sugar cane and bamboo. It is the most intense of the hydroxy acids. It has the smallest molecule, so it easily bypasses the stratum corneum and penetrates deep into the epidermis.

"Its activity and depth of penetration depend on the pH level - the lower it is (more acidic), the higher the acid's effectiveness. It exfoliates dead cells well, and also stimulates the production of hyaluronic acid and collagen," explained Tkachenko.

At the same time, she pointed out that acids help fight skin pigmentation. They will exfoliate and lighten the area of skin "packed with pigment" and remove the pigment spot. They also help age skin to stimulate skin renewal.

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"For problem and oily skin, fruit acids can help exfoliate black spots and comedones. The first type of acids that can help are alpha lipoic acid and salicylic acid. The second is well known, as it is widely used to eliminate skin problems: increased greasiness of the skin, the destruction of bacteria and prevent the emergence of bacteria, "- said the beautician.

At the same time, acids can be in different products and used at different stages of care. It can be a foam for washing, gel with acids, cream, they can also be in tonics. And the latter can be in different concentrations: either highly exfoliating or with a high acid content to equalize the pH.

"They can be included in serums and masks, but the most popular product with acids remains the superficial home peel. It's good because it can be used at home, it doesn't require a salon setting like medium and deep peels do. Immediately after the application of home peeling skin looks beautiful, fresh and healthy," - added the chemist.

Tkachenko specified that before applying a product containing fruit acids, it is recommended to make a test so that there is no allergic reaction.

"Apply a small amount on the bend of the elbow, wash off if necessary. If during the day there was no itching and irritation, the remedy can safely be used," she advised.

Earlier, on January 27, Tkachenko told Izvestia that there are several trends in the beauty sector in 2025, including environmental friendliness and transparency of cosmetic products. According to her, consumers have become more and more interested in the composition of products.