The cosmetologist told about the features of slowing down aging products

There comes a moment in every woman's life when she wants to get not only moisturizing and skin protection, but also rejuvenating effect from a cream. Cosmetic chemist, founder of the Roz Mary beauty brand Natalia Tkachenko told Izvestia on January 29 whether special products can slow down aging and remove signs of age-related changes from the face.

"The most important thing to realize is that no cream can erase 10-20 years. Rather, Anti-age creams work on the principle of slowing down age-related changes. For example, a cream can stimulate the synthesis of collagen and slow down its breakdown, but no cosmetic component can bring the course of these processes back to the rhythm as it happens in your 20s. That is why we must work ahead of time, slowing down age-related changes, and not wait for them to manifest themselves in full force," - said the expert.

According to her, when the first age-related changes appear - fine lines and wrinkles, reduction of density and elasticity - it is worth including rejuvenating cosmetics. In order for it to have such an effect, it must contain components with proven anti-age effect in working dosages.

Among the anti-age components she named retinol. It stimulates collagen synthesis, skin renewal, reduces the thickness of the stratum corneum, while increasing the thickness of living layers of the epidermis, equalizes skin tone and microrelief. In addition to its anti-ageing effect, retinol is also effective for oily, porous skin with comedones, as well as for skin with pigmentation. Due to its renewing effect, retinol clears problem skin and exfoliates pigment spots.

"But there is one nuance to using retinol that can prevent you from enjoying all its delights - it is the skin's adaptation period to retinol. During this time, the skin may flake, dry, tight and sensitive. To minimize these effects, retinol should be introduced into the care smoothly. We start with a retinol dosage of 0.2-0.3%, use it two or three times a week for the first two weeks and gradually bring it up to evening use," Tkachenko said.

Also important are peptides - small components of protein nature, consisting of several amino acids. They are divided into groups according to their action, there are peptides against pigmentation, anti-inflammatory peptides, desensitizing peptides, hair growth stimulators and many others. Among the peptides with rejuvenating effect cosmetologist has distinguished peptides stimulators of collagen synthesis and peptides myorelaxants. In order for peptides to show their effect, they need time, at least 1.5-2 months, explained the chemist.

Resveratrol, the most powerful antioxidant, is also important. It stimulates the synthesis of collagen, slows its breakdown, inhibits excessive pigment formation, and also stimulates the synthesis of special proteins sirtuins, which are able to repair DNA breaks, the expert specified.

"Vitamin C is also a powerful antioxidant and a vitamin that is not synthesized in the human body and must come from outside. Since this vitamin is vital for all organs and tissues, the skin gets very little of it on a residual basis. That is why it is so important to use vitamin C in cosmetics. Vitamin C stimulates collagen synthesis, strengthens blood vessels and prevents couperosis, as well as lightens pigmentation," Tkachenko added.

In addition, she pointed out that antioxidant plant extracts (green tea, rosemary, sage, olive) fight free radicals and enhance the action of other anti-age assets in the cream.

"It is important that the product contains not just one anti-age asset, but a complex of assets working in synergy. As for such assets as hyaluronic acid and collagen, they are not anti-age components, they are moisturizing components," - concluded the beautician.

Earlier, on January 27, Tkachenko told Izvestia that there are several trends in the beauty sector in 2025, including environmental friendliness and transparency of cosmetic products. According to her, consumers have become more and more interested in the composition of products.