Cosmetologist told about the benefits of antioxidants in cosmetics


The most important components in cosmetics are antioxidants. They fight oxidative processes that lead to cell damage, which ultimately causes disease and premature aging, Natalia Tkachenko, a cosmetic chemist and founder of the Roz Mary beauty brand, told Izvestia on December 17.
According to her, antioxidants in cosmetics will be relevant to almost everyone, for different skin types and for different ages.
"For example, young skin needs antioxidants to keep its youthfulness longer, especially in urban environments where free radical levels are elevated. Many people think you have to wait until a certain age and only then use antioxidants for anti-aging effects. But they are not able to turn back time, they only slow down aging, so a serum with antioxidants will be relevant from the age of 18," the expert explained.
If a person likes to sunbathe and cannot deny himself the pleasure of basking in the sun, despite the risk of pigmentation and photoaging, he should at least include antioxidants in his care.
The cosmetologist emphasized: the main thing to know about antioxidants is that their best effect is in bundles.
"Do not rely on a single antioxidant, choose products with several in the composition. So they will work in synergy, that is, their effects will not just summarize, but multiply," - said Tkachenko.
As an example, she cited one of the most effective bundles - vitamin C, E and ferulic acid. In this bundle, each of these antioxidants is much more effective than alone. Vitamin C is a pretty unstable component. And in the company of vitamin E and ferulic acid, it is more stable, the expert clarified.
Vitamin C is found in cosmetics in several forms: pure vitamin C (aka L-ascorbic acid); ascorbyl glucoside - a water-soluble form of vitamin C, a compound of ascorbic acid with glucose; ascorbyl palmitate (ascorbyl-6-palmitate) - a fat-soluble form of vitamin C; magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (magnesium salt of ascorbic acid) - a form of vitamin C, which remains stable in aqueous solutions.
At the same time, the cosmetologist drew attention to the fact that ascorbic acid is the most unstable form: it can quickly deteriorate, especially in open containers. According to the expert, the best way to store such products is an opaque vacuum dispenser.
"In addition to its powerful antioxidant effect, ferulic acid also has a brightening effect and helps in the fight against pigmentation. Ferulic acid stimulates collagen synthesis, protects the skin from photodamage, reduces skin inflammation and redness," said Tkachenko.
At the same time, vitamin E, in addition to antioxidant activity, revitalizes the skin, nourishes it, reduces flaking, improves regeneration. In addition, it protects valuable oils in creams, preventing their rancidity, explained the chemist.
Another powerful antioxidant in cosmetics is coenzyme Q10. It increases cell regeneration, slows down cell destruction, has an anti-inflammatory effect, and enhances the effect of other antioxidants, the expert said.
"Cosmetics with antioxidants can be used all year round. In summer, you should not apply products rich in antioxidants immediately before going out into the active sun. It is better to apply a serum or cream with antioxidants not earlier than 15-30 minutes before leaving the house, and after absorption over apply sunscreen. Thus, antioxidants in cosmetics will be most effective," concluded Tkachenko.
Earlier, on November 19, Natalia Mikhailova, candidate of medical sciences, dermatovenerologist, scientific director of the company MARTINEX, told "Izvestia" that the skin of hands in winter lacks resources for recovery, so in this period it should be cared for more carefully than in summer, and first of all pay attention to intensive moisturizing. The expert also added that alcohol lotions and disinfectants are not necessary for skin cleansing, soaps and gels wash away bacteria well enough and do not dry out the skin.
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