Molding lessons: how dumplings are prepared in Russian restaurants
Despite their apparent simplicity, dumplings fit perfectly into the format of haute cuisine and are invariably popular with restaurant guests, especially in the cold season. The treat familiar from childhood is associated by Russians with the comfort of home and is prepared from simple and understandable ingredients. "Izvestia" found out how and when pelmeni became a national dish in Russia, what is new in its recipe and what foreign analogs have appeared in our culinary culture in recent years.
How pelmeni became a traditional Russian dish
In the Russian press, the word "pelmeni" first appeared in 1837 in "Notes and Remarks about Siberia" by Ekaterina Avdeeva. The first writer of Siberia noted: "Dumplings are the same as what in Russia are called 'ears'. They are made of pasta dough, with chopped beef, also with fish, with mushrooms, frozen, and they turn into pebbles. In this form they take them on the road (there are no thaws in Siberia), and it is worth dropping the dumplings into boiling water, the dish is ready, and very tasty". Avdeeva published the first recipe for Siberian dumplings in the "Hand Book of the Russian Experienced Hostess" in 1842. This book quickly sold out, having 11 editions, and undoubtedly contributed to the popularization of the dish.
Dumplings with crab and bisque sauce
- Avdeeva's recollections refer to the beginning of the ХІХ century. Consequently, at the turn of the XVIII-XIX centuries, dumplings, and in the form we know, were a common dish in Irkutsk, - said "Izvestia" candidate of philological sciences Maxim Marusenkov. - Nevertheless, in the 1870s, dumplings were still considered a "new" dish in European Russia. They remained a Siberian specialty even in the early twentieth century, and gained nationwide status in Soviet times.
In the classic version, Siberian dumplings were prepared with a filling of purely beef or beef-pork mince. In taverns and restaurants, they appeared as a dish familiar to natives of Siberia, and primarily merchants. Thatis why they were served in restaurants operating at the Nizhny Novgorod Fair.
Mushroom dumplings with burnt leeks and mini criss-crosses
- The appearance of the surnames Pelnenev-Pelmenev allows us to attribute the emergence of dumplings to the first half of the XVII century. They emerged as a further development of kundum-kundum, or ears, known since "Domostroy", - adds Maxim Marusenkov. But unlike kundyum, which were made with lean or semi-lean filling, dumplings received a meat filling. In addition, they began to freeze and then boiled, which made the product convenient in storage and transportation. Thus, pelmeni joined the ranks of such "traveling" Russian dishes as frozen shchi and stroganina, the expert adds.
Dim sum assortment
In the ХІХ century, pelmeni were widespread in the Urals and Siberia among all strata of the population. However, they were not an ordinary dish: one can rather speak of their festive character. Popularization of dumplings in the twentieth century contributed to the mass production of this product as a semi-finished product of the food industry, as well as the emergence of specialized catering establishments - dumplings.
From what dough and with what stuffing are prepared today in restaurants pelmeni
For the preparation of classic Siberian dumplings, the simplest dough is traditionally used, consisting of flour, water and salt. Sometimes a little egg yolk is added. In restaurants, there are variants of dough with an admixture of rye flour or malt. This is often done in order to make it convenient to distinguish dumplings with different fillings, if they are presented in a large assortment. Some chefs prepare this dish from custard dough.
Dim sum assortment
- We practice a variant of tea-brewed dough," said Viktor Shaydetsky, chef at Manul restaurant. - This ancient method prevents oxidation of the dough and makes it more resistant to cold. This method gives the right texture and flavor, plus the dumplings do not crack and retain their shape when frozen.
Siberian dumplings made of tea-brewed dough
As for the filling, the expert advises to add more onions, which should be finely chopped. Also, the meat should be given a little rest in the refrigerator, so that it is colder: then the filling will be more dense and will not "float".
Dim sum assortment
- It is very important to find the right ratio of dough for each stuffing, - explained Alexey Petrichenko, brand-chef of the restaurant "Chef's Coffee House" - If the dough is too thick and there is a lot of it, it will interfere with the flavor of the product inside. Also, the dough may remain raw when cooking, while the filling will be already cooked. And vice versa, too thin a shell will overcook, and everything inside will be raw. So you have to get the balance exactly right. For example, our frozen pike-perch dumplings are cooked for only three minutes in boiling water, because they have a thin dough and the filling has time to fully cook and remain juicy.
Chicken and foie gras dumplings with truffle sauce
According to Pavel Shvetsov, chef at Erwin Pavilion, the main thing when choosing a filling is to stick to a certain balanced texture, and in order for the dumplings to retain the necessary juiciness, additional ingredients can be added inside. As an example, he cites dumplings with duck mince, in which foie gras is added for additional depth of flavor.
Xiao lun bao - traditional Chinese dumplings with broth
- The percentage ratio of stuffing and dough varies depending on what kind of cuisine the chef is an adherent of," believes Alexey Pavlovsky, head chef of Alaska gastrobar. - If he is a follower of oriental trends in cooking, the ratio of stuffing to dough will be about 60 to 40. Followers of European cuisine will prepare the dish in the proportion 50/50 or 60/40, but in favor of the dough.
Black dumplings with nelma
According to Alexey Pavlovsky, Moscow is now particularly characterized by the spread of dumplings with crab. Also in the capital you can try different variations of fish dumplings (from salmon to crucian carp and nelma), with seafood (scallop, trumpet). Dumplings with game (deer, elk, bear, beaver) are also gaining popularity. His project presents three types of dumplings - with crab, trumpet and venison.
What is the importance of shape, size and sauce to the dumplings
The shape of dumplings in the form of an "ear", which we are used to, was originally dictated by practical considerations. In this form, they were convenient to freeze and store in bags, so that they did not break and did not stick together. Most Russians even today prefer to mold or buy in stores just such dumplings. However, in restaurant conditions, you can safely experiment with the shape to surprise your guests with interesting novelties.
Gedza with shrimp
- Sometimes the dough is cut into a square, but more often into a circle, and the size can vary. There are very small dumplings that came from Central Asia. It is very labor-intensive to mold such variants, and they are most often used with broth or put in soup, so that several pieces could fit in a spoon, - shares his observations brand-chef of the restaurant "Matryoshka" Vlad Piskunov.
Crab dumplings
In Chef Shvetsov's opinion, when developing restaurant dumplings, it is better to stick to a more authentic shape and make them small, for the greater convenience of guests. In his opinion, the ideal proportion is based on 8-10 grams of dough per 15 grams of minced meat.
Almost pike caviar dumplings.
- Sauce for dumplings should be like a continuation and complement to the filling, a good flavor pair to it, - brand-chef Alexey Petrichenko is sure. - There is no need for extraordinary combinations. On the contrary, it is important to keep the right balance of products. In the case of sweet Kamchatka crab, the right complement will be lemon sauce, so inside the crab filling we have lemon zest, which enhances the flavor sensations of the main product.
What other varieties of dumplings have become popular in Russia
Dumplings in their different variations are a national dish in many countries and cultures. Many variants have become popular in Russia as well. One of the most famous dishes is Italian ravioli, which are especially common in a wide variety of gastronomic projects. In Italy, they belong to pasta and are represented by several varieties: tortelloni, tortellini, cappelletti, etc.
Dumplings with pike and muksun
- In essence, ravioli are a kind of dumplings, but they have their own peculiarities, - Ilya Romanov, brand-chef of Dolce Far Niente restaurant, explained to our edition. - Their dough is mostly made up of only yolks and almost never water, so it is denser and harder to roll out by hand. This makes the Italian analog more expensive.
Ravioli with confit duck, spinach and gorgonzola pumpkin sauce
The differences in ravioli also apply to the filling, which is also due to the increased density of the dough, continues the expert. Such a shell is slower to heat up, and that is why the filling is mostly placed inside, so that it does not remain raw. Despite the fact that ravioli in domestic restaurants is slightly adapted to the Russian taste (starting from the degree of cooking "al dente" and ending with the acidity of the sauce), they are still very much reminiscent of the original versions offered to guests in Italy.
Ravioli with rabbit
Popularization of Asian cuisine contributed to the spread of variations of dumplings from China, Japan and Korea. These include vantons, which are usually served with broth, and quite difficult to mold dimsamy, prepared on steam. But the most widespread are gyoza dumplings, the first acquaintance with which is better to get in a restaurant, as the technique of their preparation requires some skill.
Dumplings with pikeperch and caviar sauce
- Gyoza are first of all distinguished by their elongated shape," explained Sergey Postnikov, brand-chef of Fresa's Restaurant Group. "They are made of choux pastry, and a lot of umami ingredients (from the word "umami" - ed.) are added to the filling. In the cooking process, gyoza are first fried on the bottom, and then a little water is added, covered with a lid, and cooked in such a half-fry-half-pear.
Gyoza with wagyu
To make homemade gyoza, you should use ready-made dough from specialized manufacturers. The stuffing is better made of minced pork with green onions, soy sauce, sesame oil and vegetables to your taste. You should also add a little garlic and ginger. Spicy sauce is optional.
Nepali momo dumplings at the Central Market in Moscow
The edges of gyoza should be moistened with water and fixed with 4-5 shields. To prevent the dumplings from sticking, the skillet should be preheated on medium heat, and then pour a little vegetable oil into it and put the blanks. After a light color forms at the bottom of each gyoza, it is necessary to reduce the fire to a minimum, add a little water so that it quickly evaporates and there was only steam, and cover the dumplings with a lid for a couple of minutes. Now the dish is ready.
Переведено сервисом «Яндекс Переводчик»
